Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I've just found out my R32 GTR has just cleared customs in Brisbane and will be delivered to the Seaway depot in Adelaide in about a week.

My question is: what's the best way to get the car from the depot to your house? Have people just driven them there (with temp permit etc.)?

I'm worried that the car hasn't been driven for a good 6 months and I'll do damage to it with old fluids in there etc. It's also likely the battery's dead.

If I were to change the oil & filter, and jump start it, would that be safe to drive home? Driven very safely of course.

Otherwise I'll just organise a tow and hope they don't kill my front bumper!

Cheers,

Alan :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79321-picking-up-a-freshly-imported-car/
Share on other sites

couple of things if you are hell bent on driving it home.

1. The battery WILL be dead. no doubt about that. so buy or borrow a jumper pack.

2. there will be next to 0.00 litres of fuel in the tank so you will have to buy or borrow a container of fuel to take with you (98 RON of course). try to get at least a 10 litre container

3. check the brake fluid and brakes. it will have absorbed quite a bit of moisutre over that time sitting still and the rotors will be rusted up quite nicely. the car will not be stopping too well straight off the boat.

4. check the oil. dunno if i'd go to the extent of changing it on the spot, but certainly make sure there is some in it, and that it's topped up.

5. also be aware of problems like stolen steering wheel, stolen gear knob (has happend to me and is a bitch with a a/m gearset that requires a firm hand), stolen boost controller (may be running unlimited boost) etc.

if you have your wits about you it shouldn't be a problem, but all those hassles make you think maybe you are better off just getting a tow...

if your worried about it put it on a trailer

how do you plan to change oil and filter prior to moving it anywhere, you can do it at the depot

when i picked mine up i took spare battery, 20L of bp ultimate (to dilute what little fuel that was in there and would have been off from sitting for 6 months), oil ect. i also checked oil levels, coolant levels, brake fluid levels ect prior to driving off.

couple of things if you are hell bent on driving it home.

1. The battery WILL be dead. no doubt about that. so buy or borrow a jumper pack.

2. there will be next to 0.00 litres of fuel in the tank so you will have to buy or borrow a container of fuel to take with you (98 RON of course). try to get at least a 10 litre container

3. check the brake fluid and brakes. it will have absorbed quite a bit of moisutre over that time sitting still and the rotors will be rusted up quite nicely. the car will not be stopping too well straight off the boat.

4. check the oil. dunno if i'd go to the extent of changing it on the spot, but certainly make sure there is some in it, and that it's topped up.

5. also be aware of problems like stolen steering wheel, stolen gear knob (has happend to me and is a bitch with a a/m gearset that requires a firm hand), stolen boost controller (may be running unlimited boost) etc.

if you have your wits about you it shouldn't be a problem, but all those hassles make you think maybe you are better off just getting a tow...

my battery worked fine and the car had been sitting for 6 months prior to shipping, so it wont DEFINATLY be dead, cos mine wasnt, but your right its very very likely. and your also right about the brakes, they were ****ing awfull on the drive home, still safe enough taking it slowly, but shithouse all the same

I had a quick look of fluids ect- jump started it and put in 10 litres of bp ultimate- brakes locked up for the first few stops but ran sweet after the corosion wore away

Other than that it is not recomended without a permit though this sways few people- It is a very memorable moment driving youre beast off the docks :)

Thanks for your responses guys!

I don't mind getting a tow, but a friend who tried to get his MR-2 towed got refused because the tow truck driver didn't think he could do it without damaging his (stock) front bumper. I just wanted to check if it's relatively safe to drive it back from the docks if that was the only option I had. I certainly would be driving it slowly and safely in order to avoid any damage. It's probably a bit over the top to do an oil & filter change on the spot, so I will most likely check fluid levels etc. make sure everything checks out OK then drive it very sedately home.

I can't wait :(

You wont damage it by putting it on a flatbed. My front bar sits so very low and there were no problems at all. I highly recommend doing that and transporting it to you destination.

If you book a flatbed truck the day before you go down then you are likely to get a better rate too.

my battery worked fine and the car had been sitting for 6 months prior to shipping, so it wont DEFINATLY be dead, cos mine wasnt, but your right its very very likely. and your also right about the brakes, they were ****ing awfull on the drive home, still safe enough taking it slowly, but shithouse all the same

Yeah my car started first go too. But my battery is quite new. On an older car its less and less likely to happen.

I went the tow. For $80 it saved me all the hassles listed above, having to drive an unknown car, and any worries about breaking something.

For peace of mind, it was well worth it IMHO. Compared to the cost of the car its nothing anyway.

LW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...