Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a question regarding reliability as I am an ex-Commodore owner and they are probably the most unreliable cars I have ever owned. I moved up to a Skyline after owning several HSV's and V8 Commodores because I loved the style, power and quality of the R33's. So far my Skyline has been very reliable with none of the rattles or squeeks that I had in my Commodores and only basic things needing to be replaced as you would expect from a 10 year old car (fuses, globes, brake pads, clutch etc). How has your Skyline served you so far?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81099-how-reliable-is-your-skyline/
Share on other sites

had the car for a month then the coilpacks started to die, its a given though since r34s are known for their coilpack failures. other than that the skyline is alot better than my old commodores, however the supra seemed to have a slightly better motor, ran silky smooth, the nissan motors are a little noiser.

Coils do die but once replaced you can forget them.

They are very reliable unmodified but you can show up slightly weaker area with modification. The same is true for any car.

They don't get the dodgy squeaks and rattles, bad door closing/openings and stuff so much though so that is good.

Turbo died while having new exhaust fitted. Solution, upgrade to 460hp turbo with ecu and fuel support.

Clutch died with new turbo. Not built to handle 400hp. Got a heavy duty one put on.

Since in both cases I was able to upgrade, theoretically no money was wasted.

Everything else is great. I love my Skyline :)

I've only had skylines over the last 5 years.. 2x R31, 1xHR31 (only for a few months), R33 GTS-T, and R32 GTS-T

Biggest problem was a crank angle sensor on my first R31.. and fuel pump on my current R32 (fuel pump was installed by me though and was aftermarket)..

Other than that, absolutely nothing. Pretty amazing, and why I've always bought Skylines :)

Only problem i've had was the stock fuel pump being basically dead, and the car running lean (not dangerously, but defintely on the way to getting there). Replaced that and so far it runs fine. I actually went a skyline over other imports/turbo cars in hope to get great reliablity, as I always drive my cars reasonably hard.

yeh im currently a ford bogan. yeh laught at me. i know i was an idiot for buyin the dumb thing in the first place. i was wondering how the skyline would be reliability wise with all the high revving n lots of boost etc. but you guys seem to rate them alright. cant wait to get mine. how do they handle flat changes? or dont they?

yeh im currently a ford bogan. i was wondering how the skyline would be reliability wise with all the high revving n lots of boost etc. QUOTE]

I dont own a skyline either mate but in regards to the (high reving) fest i asked my old man something similar and its not like the typical ford or holden engine... These are a performance engine so take alot more then f and h.

Even with my vl being the RB30 after a while of me really giving her a beating it drastically started to lose power but that wasent so much the engine it was really most things dying around it.

Mine's been perfect for a yeah in mostly stock form (changed turbo back zorst and cold air box). Had an issue with the fuel gauge reading empty way to early but it fixed itself and hasnt occurred since.

  • 1 year later...
Mine's been perfect for a yeah in mostly stock form (changed turbo back zorst and cold air box). Had an issue with the fuel gauge reading empty way to early but it fixed itself and hasnt occurred since.

Man I have had my car for six years when they were'nt soo popular and have never had any problems no oil leaks the car is damn strong. :happy:

1 motor 1 clutch and a couple of engine mount in my car but dare say motor was my own fault after putting the boost on 10 and not being tuned but all in all car cost me 16 owes me 21 after the motor and stuff and looks no better than day one haha but i still love it for the price what goes,handles and stops like 1 not much other than that its been great and pretty reliable other than my little mishap caused by myself

mine's been very reliable *knock on wood* and besides the normal services, its needed nothing.

one thing i noticed is the rb's are balanced pretty damn well. probably why they can take high revs/hard driving without issues. u can sit a glass of water on the motor while its idling and it hardly moves. try that on a commodore.

if ur going to push it hard...just make sure you look after your oil (restrictors, increased sump capacity and baffles) and you should be right to go... that's all i am aware of being a consistent issue if you are going to push it really hard (by the sounds of it you plan on thrashing it...excuse me if i am wrong)

...meh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...