Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is a common belief that most, if not all, odometers are wound back either here or over there.

I believe it was done to mine.

Thing is, I also believe that the engines are tough and the drive train can take it.

Just check the condition of everything and try not to judge by odometer alone.

Mate, if the 45 thou is genuine you have no need to worry (even if it had a coupla hundred thousand in front of it.

Go by the condition and service it regularly.

El Bee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1488050
Share on other sites

My old RB20DET did 170,000km's, 100,000km's of that was running 1bar and ~164rwkw.

I occasionally threw it on the dyno to check afr's and ignition timing to ensure they fuel pump wasn't going bad etc..

Keep them running well and you won't have any problems for hundreds of thousands of kays.

The motor still had good 145psi in all 6 cylinders when I pulled it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1488062
Share on other sites

my 32 gt-r is showing 138ks, which i believe is genuine as the car has been here since 96..

compression tested it on the weekend, its showing 170psi in all cylinders, and i know the car has had an avcr and aftermarket turbos for a few kays..

makes me wonder how many have had some form of tampering going on.. theres no reason a stockie engine (maybe not turbos) couldnt do 200k i reckon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1488402
Share on other sites

I should also state that 145psi across all 6 cylinders in the rb20det was exactly the same as it was when I bought the car on 67,000km's.

Compression is affected by cam, cam timing etc.. Overlap bleeds off compression, as a result show a lower compression.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1488524
Share on other sites

I have a problem with my Odometer, I bought it a year ago and it was 115000Kms on the Odometer. One day i was driving and suddenly I noticed it says 230000Kms which I believe it's supposed to be 130000Kms cuz I'd only driven it for 15000kms. The old owner told me there is a minor problem with the Odometer it's not functioning correctly sometimes...is there a way to fix it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1490710
Share on other sites

I have a problem with my Odometer, I bought it a year ago and it was 115000Kms on the Odometer. One day i was driving and suddenly I noticed it says 230000Kms which I believe it's supposed to be 130000Kms cuz I'd only driven it for 15000kms. The old owner told me there is a minor problem with the Odometer it's not functioning correctly sometimes...is there  a way to fix it?

i'm guessing its a digital odo.

i've heard many many cases of this with digital odo's all of a sudden they jump like 100-200K kms!!!

this is the result of the odo catching up on its true reading after being electronically wound back.

some sydney siders may remember a dealership name B** B*** Toys, rhymes with Fig Joys Toys, on parramatta rd broadway.

heard of lots of cases from them...

i'd suggest making sure your car has all the things replaced/repaired that should normally be done for a car with your 'new' odo reading,

the rest is up to you!

everyone should be aware that realistically, every single jap import has had the clock wound back.

i've just bought a r32 gtr with 80k on the clock, its a 15yr old car, theres no way thats legit!

just do the maths

20k kms/yr

15yrs

300,000kms

and that myth that japs dont/cant drive very much is crap, japs drive as much as we do!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1492255
Share on other sites

and that myth that japs dont/cant drive very much is crap, japs drive as much as we do!

SPOT ON!!!

I can't believe the dreamers with the amazingly low K's.

But all this "winding back the clock" stuff went out with white-wall tyres.

They just buy another speedo from the wreckers and use that one. Cheap as.

Come selling time, they re-fit the original speedo and hey, look at the low K's on my car.

Log book history is much harder to falsify.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1492308
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...