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just bought some 2 pot rear calipers off a r33gtst for my series1 stagea, will get discs and pads next and then fit them. that's the back sorted then!! At the front I have decided to go for either the r34gtt or the r33gtst calipers and discs. I am running the standard 16" wheels. Will the 310mm r34gtt discs and calipers fit under this wheel or will I have to go with the 296mm r33gtst discs and calipers?

i trail fitted some R33 callipers to my stagea and found that the R33 fronts stuck out about 20mm further towards the wheel spokes than the stock S2 stagea ones. R34 ones i'd say would be about the same if not a little bigger. i don't have 16's so cant say if they fit over the callipers, but check to see if your rims have enough clearance for a wider calliper.

Edited by QWK32
Has anyone tried putting R32 GTST front brakes on a Stagea S2 RS4? I am looking at using my stock 16inch wheels.

R32 calipers require the same mods to fit as the R33 ones. IMO why bother though, they are smaller and older than R33 ones. And thinking about it I'm sure the R33 came out with 16" wheels standard so there shouldn't be a fitment issue with diameter, Just check there is enough disk clearance. FYI R32 rears are basically the same as R33 GTST rears.

found this site.

http://justskylines.com/skyline/knowledgeb...ake_setups.aspx

Useful info on there!

I have decided to go with r32gtr/r33gtst brake set up. That should fit under my stock 16" wheels, easier to get spacers if I want to up to 324mm discs and more available than r34gtt 310mm calipers so easier to source ( already done, just gotta save up!!) and a lot cheaper!!

Edited by airbox

I trial fitted some R32 4 spot calipers (They could be Z32 think they the same ???) on my RS4 Stagea S2.

They seem to fit ok, just the brakeline bracket was a bit close, probably need som hammer time.

The brake guy thinks the only problem might be slightly longer brake pedal.

I didn't acually fit up the brakes lines, but I bolted everything in as well as the standard rim. All seems ok.

I shaved the NISSAN logo off because I thought I needed to for another project.

For now im just getting the discs machined and some QFM brake pads.

Heres my pics:

R32_on_Stagea_3.jpg

R32_on_Stagea_1.jpg

yeah the 4pot Z32 callipers are the same as the R32 GTST 4pots. which is handy because most brake or parts places will have a listing for Z32 4pot pads and rotors.

with regards to the brake line, keep in mind that the S2 stagea callipers are a banjo fitting and the R32/Z32 ones are a flared fitting. you can use the stagea banjo fitting on the R32/Z32 caliper but you have to either, remove the flared section from the calliper, you will see it at the bottom of the brake line threaded hole. or trim the banjo bolt down about 2-3mm from memory, so it does bottom out on the flare fitting.

Series 1 stagea, 9/96-8/98 Dixcel rear rotor available slotted: 325 2018 Same as non type M turbo r32(almost NONE in the country, not the common rotors you will find), and same rear rotor as a non turbo R34(not GT-V, just GT as the V has larger brakes).

Front rotors same as S14 as per first post.

yeah the 4pot Z32 callipers are the same as the R32 GTST 4pots. which is handy because most brake or parts places will have a listing for Z32 4pot pads and rotors.

with regards to the brake line, keep in mind that the S2 stagea callipers are a banjo fitting and the R32/Z32 ones are a flared fitting. you can use the stagea banjo fitting on the R32/Z32 caliper but you have to either, remove the flared section from the calliper, you will see it at the bottom of the brake line threaded hole. or trim the banjo bolt down about 2-3mm from memory, so it does bottom out on the flare fitting.

z32 callipers are alloy, r32's are iron, bout a 2 kg weight difference apparently

will the banjo bolt go straight onto the rear gtst calipers after either being shortened a bit or the flared bit removed from inside? Is the top flat enough to get a good seal with the copper washers or should I try and get it milled down ( or whatever it's called) so that there is more of a flat?

Just pull the flare fitting out from the caliper. This is what I did when I fitted my GTST calipers, works perfectly. I have done 20,000kms on mine since upgrading and no problems. Alot of calipers don;t have those flare fittings in them anyway if you look at the standard calipers once you take them off you will see there is no flare fitting inside of them. The flare fitting is just needed for fitting the hardline which normally comes with the R33 calipers.

The RDA954's fit Series 2 AWD Stag calipers without machining down the OD (no rubbing or clearance issues). We have fitted them to one car already and will fit them to my Stag soon.

did the 954S fit your Stag with no issues?

did the 954S fit your Stag with no issues?

I too am interested; I just tried trial-fitting them to mine without one pad in the caliper (but only with bolts finger-tight - ran out of time) and there seemed to be some binding (though this could have been just friction from the remaining pad) but at least the offset appears correct this time.

Thinking about it I wouldn't expect clearance to be too bad as 6mm diameter = 3mm radius difference, therefore the clearance is only decreased by 3mm and I would've thought there'd be a larger margin than that between the caliper and the disc edge. But then again, maybe it needs to allow for thermal expansion?

As far as I am aware there is no problems with using the standard lines on the rear calipers. I did nothing to mine other than bolting them up and I have had no issues. The only thing you may notice is that the standard rear lines are slightly shorter than what is ideal. Mostly this is due to the different connection point on the GTST calipers. Doesn't seem to cause any problems though. I have attached some old pics I had so you can see what the finished job looks like.

post-39581-1263636133_thumb.jpg

post-39581-1263636165_thumb.jpg

I too am interested; I just tried trial-fitting them to mine without one pad in the caliper (but only with bolts finger-tight - ran out of time) and there seemed to be some binding (though this could have been just friction from the remaining pad) but at least the offset appears correct this time.

Thinking about it I wouldn't expect clearance to be too bad as 6mm diameter = 3mm radius difference, therefore the clearance is only decreased by 3mm and I would've thought there'd be a larger margin than that between the caliper and the disc edge. But then again, maybe it needs to allow for thermal expansion?

Guy`S Do you READ WHAT IS SAID ON HERE :banana: ,What don`t you get about what i did & have been running on my CAR :laugh: As i SAID BEFORE ON HERE you can run the ROTOR ok bolt it on & go ok ,

if you have to KEEP ASKING :( THE SAME THING REALLY get with it,you have the Photo`s on here & as i have had no Problem`s what is the PROBLEM :wave: ,

i just don`t understand WHY YOU CAN`T follow what i have said & done on this GOOD LUCK .

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