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bigger booster to suit the 4 spot front brakes on the WGNC34?

Stock setup would probably have been fine - BM50 m/c but I have fitted a GTR one BM57 which will have slightly less travel but require more effort. Auto booster should be fine.

So is it worth getting a brake stopper for the M35? They're not exactly cheap...close to $200 for a big hunk of metal...

i was talking to scott about it.. actually doesnt seem to hard to make one.. maybe we will..

So is it worth getting a brake stopper for the M35? They're not exactly cheap...close to $200 for a big hunk of metal...

Get someone to push on the brake pedal, while you look at the firewall flex behind booster; I reckon it would be a worthwhile addition.

It could likely be done for less; might have to take a look.

Does anyone know if there is any difference between a Stagea Series 2 and a GT-t brake master cylinder.

They list different part numbers but both appear identical and are both BM50's?

I have searched previous posts from Darrin after his GT-t brake upgrade but I haven't found any information on potential differences.

Does anyone know the reason for an early DTV (disk thickness variation) on M35 brakes? Apparently a few people have had this problem already...

Thinking of putting new pads, machine the discs and check that the brake hub is not causing this...

Has anyone done all that and had the problem happening again?

Thanks in advance...

I'm trying to decide whether to replace all my rotors with slotted ones or just get them machined. They've got enough left in them to just get them machined I think, and the rears need it badly. I've got HPX pads sitting here ready to go in, was going to try and do it all at once.

Why Waste MONEY doing that on Rear,

i did mine & couldn`t tell difference in stock to GTR setup ,

with fronts just get Sloted rotors & braided lines good pads & BRAKESTOPPER,

you spend $300+ on calipers & another $300+ on Rotors ,& still need to pads LINES & brakestopper ,so $10000 on brakes lol.

i spent $500 doing all mine & VERY HAPPY ,

Fully appreciate what you're saying, but I priced up a new caliper and pads and for not much more I've managed to find some R33 GTST brembo discs, ferodo pads(both with about 1000miles use) and good used gtst calipers. I've already got a 330mm front discs conversion and DS2500 pads with R32GTR calipers. I was never expecting a great increase in stopping power from the rears but every bit helps.

I bought mine from a group buy but I can't remember who organised it.

According to the Cusco website they list the R33 same part number as WGNC34 but different from WGC34 (2wd) so R33 one should fit.

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/Brake%20master%20cylinder%20stopper_nissan.pdf

Pretty sure I sent you the UAS stopper Bob.

I'm looking at getting new disks for my car, rather than seeing if I can machine the standard ones.

Just wondering what other people are running?

GSL supply RDA and DBA rotors, and looking at DBA, probably in either slotted or cross drilled.

Obviously the more you spend the better performance you're going to get, but I think with most things you get to a point where spending more money isn't worthwhile on a road car.

I've always heard that cross drilled rotors are a bad idea for street use, but DBA say this is no longer the case, and they've found the same or increased pad life with their new cross drilled XS rotors.

Like to hear other peoples experiences, although I'm pretty sure any decent slotted rotor will be fine.

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