Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is also ones made by HEL which are a bit cheaper than the nismo ones - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-brake-lines-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GT-T-GTT-/251232676024?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7ea268b8&_uhb=1#ht_1919wt_980

But still unsure as to which ones i require

Ah, i just PM'd you! lol

So if i buy these GKtech ones - http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s14-s15-r32-r33-braided-brake-lines-front-rear-set-intro-price.html

They should fit straight up for the setup i will have? is this what you used pipster11??

Nick

Here are some pics of how I removed the restrictor out of the r34 gtt rear

Calipers. Simply self tapped a screw into it with a screw driver and pulled it out.

Took me 10 secs max for each caliper. Be careful when you trim the bango bolts

Down though! It's hard to get them back into the caliper male sure you file them back

So you don't strip the thread on the inside of the new calipers!

Easy was I found was to use the old calipers to test each time I filed more off

to see if it went in nice!

post-52857-0-61257700-1364631604_thumb.jpg

post-52857-0-90379300-1364631633_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Okay, possibly stupid question (mostly because it's probably been answered somewhere in here, but I CBF looking through 70-odd pages): I want to replace the front calipers on my s1 C34, and I know I need the sleeves to reduce the bolt holes from 14mm down to 12mm, but what should the sleeves be made from and/or where should I get them? I've already got a set of R32 GT-R Sumitumo front calipers sitting here waiting for me...

Also, can I upsize the diameter of the rotors, seeing as I'll probably replace them with slotted ones anyway (front and rear)? If so, by how much?

Hiya Nick,

Scotty can turn you up some sleeves made from Stainless. I've got them on the M35 to run the GTR setup. Shoot him a PM. Mine are fine - been on the track.

You can go to a Brembo spec GTR disc with caliper adaptors. I know UAS make some, but they are freakin expensive for what they are- like $400. For comparison, I got my GKTech ones for the RPS13 to suit GTR discs for $99. Pity they dont fit, only the 280mm disc. I don't know of any other caliper spacer off the top of my head.

Finally got around to doing this conversion today, and i must say definatley worth it! stops so much better now!

Went together fairly easy, only had to trim the rear backing plate due to it hitting the caliper, but no disc interference front or rear.

I went with R34 GT-T setup, ended up using R33 GTR front brake lines, and GKTECH braided rears, fronts fitted perfectly, rears needed slight tweaking from the chassis hard line connector to braided line, and id like to secure it a bit better than what it is so i may need to have a closer look as to how the rears are supported in a R33/R34.

Used Brand New RDA slotted rotors to suit R34 GT-T and TRW pads all round, and the stopping power it awesome now! :)

Definatley worth the effort for this upgrade! :)

Is yours an s1 or s2, Nick?

Alex, I'll have to check if the caliper bolts are 12mm, like you mentioned they *might* be on Saturday. If so, that would make it easier, and if not then ill get some sleeves from Scott. And UAS are around the corner from me - literally across the other side of the field at the end of my street, actually - but they can be majorly expensive!

Guys, do the late model 3.5L M35 brakes rotors fit the earlier model M35 2.5LTs? I have a horrible brake squeal coming from front right, so going to get new rotors and pads.

Cheers,

Shaz

Unless the rotors are near their limit; why not just get them skimmed?

Chaps,

Does anyone have Part Numbers for Rotors and Pads for my car? I've been having a look for some on the DBA website, specifically at the 350Z, but alot of them are coming up as Brembo Fitted models, which mine isn't.

I'm really just after a set of cross drilled and/or slotted rotors and new pads, standard replacement. I may look at doing an upgrade in the future, but I really just need a straight swap item for the time being so I can bang the job out tomorrow.

So far, the closest I've gotten is DB4600, which I believe are a 324mm rotor. 4000 series heavy duty.

Cheers,

Shaz

Edited by XS80ST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...