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Oops, when i ment model change i ment 97/08, the month my car was built.

So what fluid?

There is only one Castrol SRF, but I don't use it in road cars. It is almost impossible to flush all of the old

fluid out and I don't like mixing silicon ester and polyglycol fluids. I prefer Castrol Response Super Dot 4, it is the best polyglycol they make.

:( Cheers :D

Isnt it a bad idea to put DOT 5/5.1 in DOT 4 cars as one absorbs something from something?

Anyway, ive ordered some slotted rotors from Bursons, getting the rotors for $180 each which I think is a pretty damn good price.

Going to order some Endless SSS pads if i can through the groupbuy running now here on SAU.

No rotors in stock, so they are being made. Will take 2 weeks.

So I will let everyone know my progress in future. I am also going to buy a home made brake cyl stopper from YahooJP, will ALSO let everyone how i go.

For now, my rear brakes do not concern me as in the end, they are just rears. Lets see what some new pads, rotors and fluid does to the car. AP/Brembos might just be a little too much overkill on a 95% road car.

  • 1 month later...
Hey Gary,

Just tried to install some new SSS ENDLESS pads + DBA rotors (part numbers you gave me). Had a few minor issues.

Anyway, there were some clearance issues and the pads couldnt fit over the rotors, so I just installed the pads on the std rotors (in goodish nick anyway)

Now, when I tried to compress my two pistons, one of them didnt go as far as the other (only tried installing disc on one side) and hindered my pads fitting over the discs (which are quite fat anway). Does that suggest that it needs to be rebuilt?

The standard stagea brakes are not bad once you put some good pads to them, I found out I had LUCAS pads in there, I thought stock nissan pads were a little too dusty! I will be staying away from LUCAS though now as they do have a terrible heat range.

Also, bedding in. I basically did about 20-30 medium pedal effort 50-10km/h stops, but seeing as I am using the stock rotors anyway, they will just bed themselves in next time i take her for a spirited drive no? I didnt get smoke or anything, this subject seems to cause some division among everyone. Do you always bed pads?

Cheers,

Alex

Hi Alex, how did you "compress the pistons"? I use a G clamp, centre on the pad and the back of the G on the rear of the calliper, then wind the clamp on. Nice even pressure, no side load on the piston. If you used the "screw driver/lever method" you will find that's your problem, with a large single picton sliding calliper its is very hard ot get even pressure. If you don't have a pair of G clamps (you only need on but they sell in pairs) pop down the SupaCheap or Bunnings, they are $15 or so for the small size you need.

The next trick is to open up the bleed nipple before you compress the piston. This means you are not trying to force brake fluid all the way though the pipework and back up into the master cylinder.

If you still can't get the pistons all the way retracted then it's time to service them.

Lastly, what thickness are the brake pads? They need to be 14 mm, you might just sneak 15 mm pads in there but 16 mm won't fit.

Cheers

Gary

They were pretty meaty pads, thickest ive seen around before.

I used a special tool, it was like a plate with a big long screw thing with a "cup" on the end. You put the cup in the piston, then the plate pushes against the other side of the caliper and compresses the piston. I tottally removed the caliper and broke it into half to install the new pads. That includes undoing all the hydraulic lines.

Also, you experiance uneven pad wear on the pads correct? When i removed my lucas pads, they were more worn on one side than the other (i guess a side effect of a single sliding)

I guess its time for a service/rebuild. Ill also find out the thickness of the pad material.

Also, do you bed in pads if you dont have new rotors?

Thanks,

Alex

Hi Alex, a proper calliper piston compressor, excellent. I did get slightly uneven pad wear, but not side to side ie; one pad did not wear more than the other. Mine had a tiny bit more wear on the leading edge of each pad. Which is common on sliding calliper. Uneven pad wear is usually a sign of a sticking piston or sticking slide on the calliper, so it doesn't equalise the pressure on both pads.

The piston should go back in far enough to be basically flush with the calliper. The piston should not "stick out".

Cheers

Gary

  • 2 weeks later...

ok peoples ive been thru the whole thread and still cant find some decent info on the series 2 brakes we have got the series one sorted by the look of it .but us guys with series 2 are gunna be desperate for some help here. hey guys im no flamin genius on theese matters and your going to have to forgive my ignorance but i dont want to spend a fortune on endless pads or go thru the heartburn of trying to get nissan genuine if someone has found a better setup like u have with the series 1.i know mark is searching also and desperatly needs new rotors as will i by the looks of things .so come on guys lets put our heads together here. thanks in advance guys i know i wont be the only one that benefits here.

ok peoples ive been thru the whole thread and still cant find some decent info on the series 2 brakes we have got the series one sorted by the look of it .but us guys with series 2 are gunna be desperate for some help here. hey guys im no flamin genius on theese matters and your going to have to forgive my ignorance but i dont want to spend a fortune on endless pads or go thru the heartburn of trying to get nissan genuine if someone has found a better setup like u have with the series 1.i know mark is searching also and desperatly needs new rotors as will i by the looks of things .so come on guys lets put our heads together here. thanks in advance guys i know i wont be the only one that benefits here.

What exactly is it you are after?

Brake fluid - Castrol Response Super Dot 4, it is the best polyglycol they make

Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm

Rear Disc Rotors - DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by machining down the OD by 5mm

Rear Pads – 1399 in any Bendix compound

The only thing I haven’t found an aftermarket/heavy duty part is;

Front pads - Hitachi HP63H FF

If someone wants to send me a pair of front S2 pads, I will see what I can find.

:P cheers :P

What exactly is it you are after?

Brake fluid - Castrol Response Super Dot 4, it is the best polyglycol they make

Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm

Rear Disc Rotors - DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by machining down the OD by 5mm

Rear Pads – 1399 in any Bendix compound

The only thing I haven’t found an aftermarket/heavy duty part is;

Front pads - Hitachi HP63H FF

If someone wants to send me a pair of front S2 pads, I will see what I can find.

:P cheers :P

thanks mate ill try to get u a set of fronts

  • 3 weeks later...

Series II front brake pad and rotor replacement under investigation as I type (2 fingers). Will hopefully have some initial info, with photos later tonight. Now do not go getting all excited this info is preliminary as I still have a little bit more to do before final set up and testing is completed.

post-18577-1151412052.jpg

I have found a set of brake pads which, with a small amount of grinding, should seat very nicely in the front calipers. As can be seen in the first image, the pad is fractionally too long but by machining the tang and lower shoulder back 3mm @ both ends it should seat correctly. The pad (brand 'X') is common, and you should be able to source it from just about anywhere in varying degrees of quality.

post-18577-1151412175.jpg

The rotor is in fact a DB4963. SK has previously identified this rotor as the one to use with a small amount of machining (6mm) from the diameter. A trial fitment today showed the rotor did fit, with caliper in position and no machining was done. However it is a close fit and until testing has been completed no comment or recommendations can or will be made. (SK if you are reading this - machining may still be required).

The only issue noted to date is that the DB4963 does sit in a little further than the original rotor and may foul on the caliper. There is only about 3.5mm difference between the two caliper dimensions. Once the pad modification has been completed and fitted I will review the rotor/caliper clearance.

I would like to have this completed before end of month. If not, then end of financial year stocktakes, accounts etc will take priiority.

As soon as any further developments have been made I will post it up.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok guys just sent my car for compliance today to kamikaze and i asked them about the brake pads issue that im worried about.

The guys said that if the car came with an aftermarket brakepads they are rquired to be change to the specific pads that have a specific part # 41060aa393 (front) and rears are part # 44060ab085. Does any of the aftermarket brake pads have these part #s? i doubt it. If so i will most likelt get ripped off for having to change to a genuine brake pads (brembo) remember people i have the 260rs. SIGH!! 1k gone. let me know people

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