Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well finally i bit the bullet and bought some Toyo Proxies RA1. These are a race tyre but are street legal similiar to the Bridgestone RE55. Im not expecting a very long life out of them but when you spend a fair bit of time spinning wheels, these are a huge releif. With the old Sumitunos HRZ 11's 255/40/17, 2nd gear wheel spin was at will as soon as boost hit. Good for showing off but not good for winning races. Now with these RA1's, i have 1st gear traction on the street and it is a rocket, no more hiding at traffic lights. Just for the record, i know RWD cars doing 1.6 60's with these tyres. Im not expecting 1.6, but if i can get 1.7/1.8 60's look out for a very low 12 and then i can drive it home. Perfecto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82245-traction-like-a-gtr-from-a-gtst/
Share on other sites

The drag spec Nitto's is what you want for straight line.

They handle quite well also.

Whatsisname had them on his car when it was making some where from 260-290rwkw and ran a low 12 with his granny shifting. :P

I remember him telling me he can get almost all the power from first down and second also.

The drag spec Nitto's is what you want for straight line.

They handle quite well also.

Whatsisname had them on his car when it was making some where from 260-290rwkw and ran a low 12 with his granny shifting. :P

I remember him telling me he can get almost all the power from first down and second also.

Where do you buy Nittos from? and how much are they roughly?

I just found this on Toyo's website:

The Proxes RA1 has the same construction & tread compound as the Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag Radial, and therefore provides very similar performance.

Don't know if I believe it but interesting... anyone know the price diff?

The Proxes RA1 has the same construction & tread compound as the Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag Radial, and therefore provides very similar performance.

If Toyo's RA1 (which they advertise as a clubsport circuit racing tyre) has the same construction and tread compound as Nitto's NT555R (which is reknown as a drag tyre), then one of them is going to suck at their advertised function.

Drag tyres make shit circuit tyres, because of their weak sidewalls. And vice versa.

With the rubber compound and tread pattern, I don't doubt that the circuit tyre will provide good grip compared to your regular street tyre off the line, but its still not ideal.

If Toyo's RA1 (which they advertise as a clubsport circuit racing tyre) has the same construction and tread compound as Nitto's NT555R (which is reknown as a drag tyre), then one of them is going to suck at their advertised function.

Drag tyres make shit circuit tyres, because of their weak sidewalls. And vice versa.

With the rubber compound and tread pattern, I don't doubt that the circuit tyre will provide good grip compared to your regular street tyre off the line, but its still not ideal.

Refer to my original post, I know guys using these tyres at the drags and producing awesome launches. As for me, my car now bites hard.

If they cant do both (drag and cornering) why do alot of quick street cars use RE55's and also Ben from RacePace uses these on his track GTR.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

So far i have noticed, i can still get wheelspin in 2nd when they are cold, but once they warm up, grip is phenominal. Im yet to try them down the 1/4 as yet but im predicting a nice drop in my times. I dont track race so i can't adivse you, but i only have them on the back so i would be understeering quite badly.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

So which tyres are good for track days?

Those bloody A032Rs....did you guys run the 48s? I am interested to see if they will be any better....I am hoping Gordon will be out of stock of the 32s when I need to buy the next set :P

Pete and Terry were having a tricky time with the 48s apparently?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...