Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well finally i bit the bullet and bought some Toyo Proxies RA1. These are a race tyre but are street legal similiar to the Bridgestone RE55. Im not expecting a very long life out of them but when you spend a fair bit of time spinning wheels, these are a huge releif. With the old Sumitunos HRZ 11's 255/40/17, 2nd gear wheel spin was at will as soon as boost hit. Good for showing off but not good for winning races. Now with these RA1's, i have 1st gear traction on the street and it is a rocket, no more hiding at traffic lights. Just for the record, i know RWD cars doing 1.6 60's with these tyres. Im not expecting 1.6, but if i can get 1.7/1.8 60's look out for a very low 12 and then i can drive it home. Perfecto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82245-traction-like-a-gtr-from-a-gtst/
Share on other sites

The drag spec Nitto's is what you want for straight line.

They handle quite well also.

Whatsisname had them on his car when it was making some where from 260-290rwkw and ran a low 12 with his granny shifting. :P

I remember him telling me he can get almost all the power from first down and second also.

The drag spec Nitto's is what you want for straight line.

They handle quite well also.

Whatsisname had them on his car when it was making some where from 260-290rwkw and ran a low 12 with his granny shifting. :P

I remember him telling me he can get almost all the power from first down and second also.

Where do you buy Nittos from? and how much are they roughly?

I just found this on Toyo's website:

The Proxes RA1 has the same construction & tread compound as the Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag Radial, and therefore provides very similar performance.

Don't know if I believe it but interesting... anyone know the price diff?

The Proxes RA1 has the same construction & tread compound as the Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag Radial, and therefore provides very similar performance.

If Toyo's RA1 (which they advertise as a clubsport circuit racing tyre) has the same construction and tread compound as Nitto's NT555R (which is reknown as a drag tyre), then one of them is going to suck at their advertised function.

Drag tyres make shit circuit tyres, because of their weak sidewalls. And vice versa.

With the rubber compound and tread pattern, I don't doubt that the circuit tyre will provide good grip compared to your regular street tyre off the line, but its still not ideal.

If Toyo's RA1 (which they advertise as a clubsport circuit racing tyre) has the same construction and tread compound as Nitto's NT555R (which is reknown as a drag tyre), then one of them is going to suck at their advertised function.

Drag tyres make shit circuit tyres, because of their weak sidewalls. And vice versa.

With the rubber compound and tread pattern, I don't doubt that the circuit tyre will provide good grip compared to your regular street tyre off the line, but its still not ideal.

Refer to my original post, I know guys using these tyres at the drags and producing awesome launches. As for me, my car now bites hard.

If they cant do both (drag and cornering) why do alot of quick street cars use RE55's and also Ben from RacePace uses these on his track GTR.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

So far i have noticed, i can still get wheelspin in 2nd when they are cold, but once they warm up, grip is phenominal. Im yet to try them down the 1/4 as yet but im predicting a nice drop in my times. I dont track race so i can't adivse you, but i only have them on the back so i would be understeering quite badly.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

So which tyres are good for track days?

Those bloody A032Rs....did you guys run the 48s? I am interested to see if they will be any better....I am hoping Gordon will be out of stock of the 32s when I need to buy the next set :P

Pete and Terry were having a tricky time with the 48s apparently?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...