Ceramic Coatings - Dumps and Front Pipes.

[75coupe]

Im hoping to install air temp sensors in the exhaust housing of turbo and intake plenum so i can get before and after air temp readings, have a company wanting to do ceramic coatings inside and out and as many of my engine bay parts as possible, they even wanted to take the sump off and do more coatings in there...

They are hoping to show coating benefits to customers in the real world, so temps all taken at track before and after

[Manuel Kasko]

Lucky you

[33GTRV]

I ended up going a Perrin beanie, racers use them for a reason. I Also went and sourced a roll of INDUSTRIAL heat wrap and a couple of sheets of the ACL heat shielding. I've reduced temps massively doing this

[75coupe]

Reducing engine bay temps is one thing also taking advantage of the lower temps effects on the intake charge is another... So reducing outward temp of parts and then reducing heat that can heat soak others

[GTR_JOEY]

The guys at GCG reckon the Borg warner Beenies are good for 800 Celsius which is fine for the street but may reach higher temps after some hard circuit work. Sprints and a few laps shouldn't see that temp I imagine.

Full-race also got back to me and they do ceramic coat and/or wrap their manifolds and they still give warranty against cracking. Not that I see why it should. Also noticed they ceramic coat their manifolds for 150ish bucks.

Should have had it done when I bought it as GCG quoted me $905 to coat my manifold, turbine housing and 1.5m of dump pipe.. seems steep

Whats the general thoughts on Turbo Beenie vs ceramic coated turbine housing in terms of reducing heat. I would imagine the beanie would work better

[scotty nm35]

The beanies work very well, you can touch the beanie after a run, not something I would try with the ceramic coat.

[GTR_JOEY]

good to know, thanks scotty

[sucram]

I wouldn't use a beanie if your car is used on a circuit, it will heat fatigue your housing. I don't think your turbo has a stainless housing but if its iron like 99% of housings it could be 1 year, could be 10 but it will fatigue crack and possibly warp if your doing regular circuit work. Drags and street is fine though.

Of course you can touch a beanie afterwards, they are 1'' thick! What cracks them is the surface temp/core temp differs and fatigues over time

Best bet is to make your own from ACL and rivet it together. Depending on how well you make it, it will be just as good without any risk. If you only spend 20 mins making it, you may as well make a heat shield out of cheaper mats

Competition coatings in Guilford will be 1/3rd the price on gcg, hi octane coatings etc.

[scotty nm35]

Mine is a Taiwanese stainless Tial copy, still going fine after 4 years wrapped in a beanie. They are a lot thinner than a cast iron housing.

I doubt either will crack or warp just from the beanie, perhaps if the exhaust is hanging off it with no flex joint like most of you run your systems.

[GTR_JOEY]

I'll give the guys at comp coatings a call then.

Someone previously posted that they wrapped their Intercooler piping.

I'm not sure what the purpose of this is for. Yes you may stop some heat soak but wouldn't it be better to keep the piping exposed to the air to reduce charge temps as appose to keeping the heat in

[GTSBoy]

Someone previously posted that they wrapped their Intercooler piping.

I'm not sure what the purpose of this is for. Yes you may stop some heat soak but wouldn't it be better to keep the piping exposed to the air to reduce charge temps as appose to keeping the heat in

Turbo makes the air hot. Intercooler makes the air cold. The hope should be that the air coming from the cooler into the engine bay would be colder than the engine bay environment. Ergo, wrapping IS about keeping the heat out. This is especially true when stopped or crawling in traffic. There's no heat in the incoming air - so stopping it from getting hot between the front of the car and the plenum is a good thing. Allows you to make power without pinging if you suddenly want/need/get to put your foot down.

If the air returning from the cooler is hotter than the engine bay, then it is not going to lose much heat to the engine bay anyway. This would possibly be the case when you're on high boost and load and the intercooler is only able to get the air down to a still fairly high temperature. In this case, the wrapping may stop the charge air from losing a little more heat to the engine bay, but the engine bay is a pretty hot spot, so you can't imagine that the loss of cooling power from wrapping it would be worth worrying about.

FWIW, I have my return pipe wrapped in glass wrap and then reflective foil+bitumen tape as well. The latter because it is easier to wipe clean without glass fibres coming loose all over the place, pain of working with your arms rubbing up against glass tape, etc etc.

Edited July 18, 2014 by GTSBoy

[scotty nm35]

Turbo makes the air hot. Intercooler makes the air cold. The hope should be that the air coming from the cooler into the engine bay would be colder than the engine bay environment. Ergo, wrapping IS about keeping the heat out. This is especially true when stopped or crawling in traffic. There's no heat in the incoming air - so stopping it from getting hot between the front of the car and the plenum is a good thing. Allows you to make power without pinging if you suddenly want/need/get to put your foot down.

If the air returning from the cooler is hotter than the engine bay, then it is not going to lose much heat to the engine bay anyway. This would possibly be the case when you're on high boost and load and the intercooler is only able to get the air down to a still fairly high temperature. In this case, the wrapping may stop the charge air from losing a little more heat to the engine bay, but the engine bay is a pretty hot spot, so you can't imagine that the loss of cooling power from wrapping it would be worth worrying about.

FWIW, I have my return pipe wrapped in glass wrap and then reflective foil+bitumen tape as well. The latter because it is easier to wipe clean without glass fibres coming loose all over the place, pain of working with your arms rubbing up against glass tape, etc etc.

I agree. It was good enough for Gibson.

[GTR_JOEY]

Thanks for the post GTS boy

im thinking I will use a black wrap on the greddy hard pipe kit I have so it doesn't look sho shiny and gay.. stands out less on the pipes coming off the cooler in the front

where did you purchase your reflective foil and bitumen tape??

[AngryRB]

I agree. It was good enough for Gibson.

interesting what looks like support bars for the turbo/manifolds, certainly can be a heavy load hanging off the manifolds on modded cars. Is that to stop the manifold

cracking under hot racing conditions?

Edited July 19, 2014 by AngryRB

[GTSBoy]

where did you purchase your reflective foil and bitumen tape??

Bunnings building supplies section.

[GTR_JOEY]

Thanks

[scotty nm35]

interesting what looks like support bars for the turbo/manifolds, certainly can be a heavy load hanging off the manifolds on modded cars. Is that to stop the manifold

cracking under hot racing conditions?

The cast manifolds turn to jelly at 1000+C, yes the bars are there to support the weight and keep the manifolds in one piece, seems to do the trick...

[sucram]

I needed aluminium tape and seen that tape in bunnings. Not sure if its the right stuff. I ended up getting aluminium tape from Jaycar for $11 rated to 120 deg c. It looks more like the tape used on the Gibson car.

Bunnings starts at like $26

I doubt either would do much on a greddy hard pipe kit, its already polished alloy

If you don't like the look just paint it with 2k or engine enamel (something that wont scratch easy) or ceramic coat it. Wrapping a hard pipe kit will add Zero gains. One hit on boost with 100deg + outlet temps from the turbo and it will be just as hot as anything else.

Have a close look at the Gibson picture, they "over trimmed" the manifold heat shields. They could have had warping issues due to temp so they were trying the "more airflow" approach then that caused a heat soak issue in pit stops.

TLDR Hot side don't worry about it or just paint/coat it for looks/preference. Cold side do what you can to stop heat soak only if you have long cross over pipes (rb20/25). RB26 is too short to bother with

[GTSBoy]

TLDR Hot side don't worry about it or just paint/coat it for looks/preference. Cold side do what you can to stop heat soak only if you have long cross over pipes (rb20/25). RB26 is too short to bother with

Yuh, and on RB26 the return is on the driver's side of the bay. Stock pipe layout on 20/25 passes the return over the turbo, so worth doing what you can there I suspect.

[GTR_JOEY]

small revival,

whats peoples opinions on ceramic coating the external waste gate pipes?

I would assume there would be a small advantage in terms of keeping engine bay temps down, performance wise i'm guessing the gains would be minimal.