Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I feel sorry for your diff.

there is going to be some serious torque there with the blower.

I havent read the thread but that looks like a VQ45. beutiful engine. That engine put out 206kw at standard in the "gentlemens agreement" it and it was under rated quite a lot.

I put in a guess at 320RWKW. ;)

Sweet mate looks really good. I am in talks with a mate at the moment about putting this model v8 or a lexus v8 in a r33 gtr and make the 4 wheel drive work and add a turbo. Whats the room like around the brake booster and the clutch master cylinder, and how much clearence is there around the exhuasts on both sides???

Good luck, its a bloody good idea!!!

No room for turbos thats for sure, not without body mods and i want this to be 100% street legal so im not going anywhere near that. I built a custom set of headers to turn down really sharp otherwise they would be sitting on the rails.

Be nice to see one in a GTR, lots and lots of fabrication... just not something im bothered with atm... Ive still got my GTR and im trying to get rid of it, it just doesnt interest me as much as this does.

Well it would be a big single turbo so both exhausts would kind of be like a log manifold facing foword, and then run the dump back under the passenger side engine mount or something aroun there. The biggest hastle for me as although its his car I will be doing all the work is cutting and shutting the sump to suit an engine that 1 has a totally different bolt pattern on the bottom then secondly is 2 cylinders shorter in length but wider!!!

My friend has a T-trim on a holden/isuzu rodeo 3.2 6cyl which was stroked to 3.7l and it pushes just over 400rwkw with 25psi.

But oh my god are those things damn loud at just idle!! The BOVs vent constantly and they scream. To the uninitiated it sounds like something is wrong from the loud grinding sound from the supercharger.

Somebody mentioned about your diff and torque. This rodeo had a new ford 9 inch and on its first pass (slicks) it smashed the living daylights out of it. Fitted up a strange full spool and next time out spat out an axle. Fitted in some moser axles and tried again and then it ripped the front of the diff housing off. This is with a six so yeah its gonna make some grunt with your package.

A t-trim at full noise on your motor in an R33 will run deep into the 11's if not a 10 if you can put it down.

I had considered putting a Q45 engine into a CPV35 Skyline but was told they weigh so much more than a VQ35DE engine.

Did you weigh the engine at all as I would be interested to know.

A V35 V8 non supercharged would be a nice daily driver i think.

Cheers

Messy engine WTF??? Looks factory to me?

R34 - wouldn't be much point throwing the V8 into the V35, yes it would push a bit more power, but you may as well just go with forced induction on the VQ35. Even if you're looking at a cost point of view, pick up a lower spec V35 without the VQ35 and throw in a late mode VQ25DET from a stagea :rant:

I like people doing something different like this. Well done. As for the power it will produce, any decent engine with forced induction will produce easily 100rwkW per litre...so it means 450rwkW for this sucker!!!!! GTR drivers start pissing your pants. As for if its a strong enough engine....coated pistons from the factory and 6 bolt bottom end. Thats stronger than your RB26!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...