Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The 5.5-6.8ohm resistors are the ones to use.

10W is fine providing you mount them to a metal box and mount the pack outside of the engine bay (as the origional gtr resistor pack is)

Reason being is when the resistors get hot they don't perform as they should.

So even with the propper GTR resistor pack in a GTST you shouldn't mount it inside the engine bay.

I prefer to use the 15w+ watt resistors encased in a heatsink.

Edited by Cubes

So the MR30 dropping resistor will do the same job as the GTR one?

I measured one I had lying around and it was 6.8 ohms.

Doesn't the R32 gtst power fc have 440cc injectors as an option on the injector menu?

Does that mean they anticipate people using GTR injectors as an upgrade?

I can't read my Jap manual so I can't tell what they consider safe impedence.

I'd sure hate to toast those transistors.

There is no option for selecting injector types.

There is only a trim. Inside the PFC it has stored the stock injector values, you then either do an overall trim or change every cell in the map to achieve the correct afr's.

The issue with an overall trim is you often run out of adjustment via the pfc. From memory 1.4? is the most you can adjust to. If making a lot of power and using a trim this WILL cause problems.

The only propper way to do it is do a complete fuel map tune with no trimming.

OK, so the bit in the manual with injector sizes just shows you how to calculate trims?

eg. 270cc / 440cc =.6136

Will it cope with that until I get a full tune?

So the MR30 dropping restistor (6.8 ohms) will do the the job with the pfc and gtr injectors?

The 5.5-6.8ohm resistors are the ones to use.

10W is fine providing you mount them to a metal box and mount the pack outside of the engine bay (as the origional gtr resistor pack is)

Reason being is when the resistors get hot they don't perform as they should.

So even with the propper GTR resistor pack in a GTST you shouldn't mount it inside the engine bay.

I prefer to use the 15w+ watt resistors encased in a heatsink.

A 6.8oHm in series with the ~2oHm of the injector, at 12V will draw 1.36A.

So at 1.36A the 6.8oHm will dissipate 12.577 Watts.

I've done the calcs and had a read of the resistor specs.

The 10w is ok and the resistors will handle it, I believe there's another bloke on SAU running 10w and a few over at SDU, you wouldn't want them getting hot, though. I wouldn't do it. :D

The injectors see a little more than 12v. More like 13.8v, I use the 25w Aluminium Housed Resistors to be on the safe side.

Edited by Cubes

Also remember that you aren't running at 100% duty either , so the current flow will be at a reduced ratio following along with the duty cycle of the injector. (unless you are right on the edge..)

Better to be safe than sorry though.

I wired in 10watt, 10 ohm resistors in series with each injector, they are all taped up along the fuel rail, they have been working fine for the past 2 weeks, mine dont see much heat because where they sit the fan blows air straight down the fuel rail, im yet to measure their temps though with the infra thermometer.

Why you must run a resistor pack.

http://www.hondata.com/techlowohminjectors.html

Those looking for the R30 resistor pack; its located behind the strut on the passenger side. Very easy to see. Be sure you grab the complete plug (male and female) with some wire to spare.

Edited by Cubes
  • 3 months later...
  • 10 months later...

digging up old threads again :D

I have just installed GTR injectors and used 10watt resistors from farnell. they are 6.8ohm and are wire wound with heatsinks. I picked them because they are rated to 275deg c. the part number is 950-8015

find them here:

CLICKY CLICKY

they cost about $28 for 6 :P

Edited by CEF11E

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...