Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTST

18 by 9 +22 all round.

Lipped guards front and rear, -3 camber roughly front via camber arms and stock rear adjusted fully. Rubs very slightly on the rear, front is fine.

IMO the best fitment on a 32 without pumping guards.

I have a R32 gts-t and i'm looking at some ROTA Grids

I love the staggered look and they are cheaper so thats what im going for.

17 x 9 + 12

and

18 x 10 +15

Im 99% sure these would require some guard work to make fit? Do you think that a 10" on a standard gts-t guard?

Thanks :)

Rota grids

18x9.5 +25 would this offset poke at the front on a r33 gtst?? I know +20 is fine for the rear but just mainly wondering about the front

[/quote

depends how low you want the car to be, a full steering lock might produce some rubbing and going up steep driveways unless theres a decent gap between tyre and guards, because the wheels and tyre dont tuck up under the guard anymore

be more practical to have 9inch wide or 8.5 on front and 30offset max, depending how much work you want to do with camber, rolling, suspension

would anyone know if an 18x9 +23 would fit on an r33 gts-t? Has rolled guards and coilovers. Help would be really appreciated.

Has adjustable coilovers with stock camber/control arms etc. was thinking 225-235/40 up front and 235-245/40 for the rears (rims dont have tires on)

im looking at 18x9.5+12 all round for R33 gts-t, can i do this on the standard guards?

Bare in mind i want to run a 245,255 or 265 tyre up front an 255 or 265 down back

also considering 18x10.5+15 all round, would these suit with front wide/pumped guards an pumped rear guards?

For 18x10.5 +15, you'd need a helluva of flare to fit the rims even with 255 or 265 all around.

Friend did it on his 32 GTST, 50mm pumping rears and 30-40mm front on GTR guards, to fit 10.5 +15 with 265/35 semi slicks look very tough.

For 18x10.5 +15, you'd need a helluva of flare to fit the rims even with 255 or 265 all around.

Friend did it on his 32 GTST, 50mm pumping rears and 30-40mm front on GTR guards, to fit 10.5 +15 with 265/35 semi slicks look very tough.

hmmm sounds good, ive been looking at front an rear guards for some time now

now i know ill add rear guards to my shopping list too :thumbsup:

hi all i have an r32 4 door and have found my favorite wheels at the right price if 18x8 and 18x9 +30 and +31 offset will fit on my car cheers

Should fit right in.

Hay guys,

got an r33 that i'm putting 25mm rear guards on aswell as 20mm front fenders

so everyone says that a 9.5" rim with +30 if flush for the rear, so i'd take 20mm to get flush with the new guards yes? so a 9.5" +10 should be close to flush with new gaurds

i dont know a flush fitment for the front working off what i have now i'd say ( 8" rim +15-20) can someone please confirm :)

the rims i am gonna buy are Yokohama Advan RZ-DF

my question is will the follow fit flush for the wider front and rear guards:

front: 19 x 9 +25 then add a 15mm bolt-on spacer??

rear: 19 x 10.5 +25??

any help will be muchly appreciated

Hay guys,

got an r33 that i'm putting 25mm rear guards on aswell as 20mm front fenders

so everyone says that a 9.5" rim with +30 if flush for the rear, so i'd take 20mm to get flush with the new guards yes? so a 9.5" +10 should be close to flush with new gaurds

i dont know a flush fitment for the front working off what i have now i'd say ( 8" rim +15-20) can someone please confirm :)

the rims i am gonna buy are Yokohama Advan RZ-DF

my question is will the follow fit flush for the wider front and rear guards:

front: 19 x 9 +25 then add a 15mm bolt-on spacer??

rear: 19 x 10.5 +25??

any help will be muchly appreciated

hey im not sure but i think fronts will be a tight fit will also be very close.....hmm, i have 18by 9.5inch with 245 and it just scrubs slightly on front, with wider guards on which im selling, they are fine(15mm wider) rear seems to have a bit to spare with same width tyre and offset (30 all round)

so you will be pushing to limits i reckon...:whistling:

Hey guys,

I'm fairly new to this sort of stuff and I was just looking to find out some information in regards to wheel fitment for an R34 25GT Coupe. My car came with these 17" 6.5JJ wheels. I don't really want to go anything bigger than 17" but I want to get some wider wheels. What width could I go on the front and rear without having the wheels rub on the guards? Also, what offsets are best for an R34 25GT Coupe? Like, what range?

im looking at 18x9.5+12 all round for R33 gts-t, can i do this on the standard guards?

Bare in mind i want to run a 245,255 or 265 tyre up front an 255 or 265 down back

also considering 18x10.5+15 all round, would these suit with front wide/pumped guards an pumped rear guards?

im running 18x9.5 +20 on the front of my 34 gtt and it only sticks out a bit.

with yours being +12, will stick out 8mm more, so with some camber it will tuck in & also depend on your ride height too.

but with 255/265 up front will scrub, best to get 235 or 245.

ill most likely run 245 up front on my 9.5".

Just wondering if 18x10 +15 with 225 tyres will fit on the rear of a gtst with only little lowering with coil overs no camber arms

Cheers

Chi

will stick out, unless you have camber arms to tuck em in, its gonna look silly.

18x9.5 +30~ will be fine without camber arms but it will generally camber in when you lower the car anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...