Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

code of practice states diffrerent

Sorry but no.

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP11_Section_LS_Tyres_Suspension_Steering_V2_1Jan_2011%20v3.pdf

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx

And the code is still in draft and live so it does not come into play legaly, your state authority guidelines are the ones you must comply with.

Its a good read though.

And the code is still in draft and live so it does not come into play legaly, your state authority guidelines are the ones you must comply with.

Its a good read though.

wrong!

it already has....the standards must be met when engineer the car....we can have this debate all day but ive spent the last 6 months working on this and won...not to mention that my car was engineered in sydney to those rules

wrong!

it already has....the standards must be met when engineer the car....we can have this debate all day but ive spent the last 6 months working on this and won...not to mention that my car was engineered in sydney to those rules

Well then how about a link to said docs, as during my engineering process this came up as well, all the information I have come up with states that you cannot have wheels or tyres outside the body line, this is also what my engineer said, but if you have some new relevant information that can be backed up by a legal document that the local (i.e NSW RTA for example) will use for compliance then I shall be proven wrong.

Until then just saying Im wrong holds no weight.

Well then how about a link to said docs, as during my engineering process this came up as well, all the information I have come up with states that you cannot have wheels or tyres outside the body line, this is also what my engineer said, but if you have some new relevant information that can be backed up by a legal document that the local (i.e NSW RTA for example) will use for compliance then I shall be proven wrong.

Until then just saying Im wrong holds no weight.

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx

these regulations are a standard and are live....all cars (including modified must meet these) and YES these are not drafts these are the CODES that must be met

as i said i spent the last 6months in court over this exact thing and have the documents to prove it how ever i see no need to show these to you to prove you wrong...

Sorry but no.

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

http://www.infrastru...n_2011%20v3.pdf

http://www.infrastru...n/vsb_ncop.aspx

And the code is still in draft and live so it does not come into play legaly, your state authority guidelines are the ones you must comply with.

Its a good read though.

http://www.infrastru...n/vsb_ncop.aspx

these regulations are a standard and are live....all cars (including modified must meet these) and YES these are not drafts these are the CODES that must be met

as i said i spent the last 6months in court over this exact thing and have the documents to prove it how ever i see no need to show these to you to prove you wrong...

LOL

Your link was the one I posted up before, YOUR link states.

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

LOL

Your link was the one I posted up before, YOUR link states.

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

2nd to that i never stated anything about that link saying otherwise....

NCOP11 Section LS Suspension and Steering V2 01Jan2011 [dl_acrobat.gifPDF: 1319 KB]

4.2.3 Clearance

No part of the wheel must touch any part of the body, chassis, steering, braking system or

suspension under any operating condition. To check this, the vehicle must be fully laden and

capable of negotiating raised obstacles that would normally be encountered whilst driving such

as speed humps and driveway entries. This test should be conducted from lock to lock without

any part of the rim or tyre contacting any other part of the vehicle. Test weight for passengers is

68kg plus 15kg per person for luggage where luggage space is provided.

Section LS Tyres, Rims, Suspension and Steering

Version 2.0 – 1 January 2011 Page 21/LS85

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork , or mudguards (including

flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

Steering and/or suspension stops must not be modified to provide clearance for wheels.

Skyline model = R33 GTS

Wheel diameter = 17"

Wheel width = 9" front 10" rear

Wheel offset =45 on rims using 30mm bolt-on spacers = 15 offset

Tyre size = 235/45/17 front 255/40/17 rear

Modifications to fit =roll guards

299619_4740367320688_491036213_n.jpg

321397_4740448522718_1212336204_n.jpg

16800_4734162885581_370505900_n.jpg

Edited by viinnh
01Jan2011[/i]' timestamp='1358223891' post='6707258']

the vehicle must be capable of negotiating raised obstacles that would normally be encountered whilst driving such as speed humps and driveway entries.

tumblr_inline_mg512u1eto1qbnggp.jpg

Wondering on fitment for r34 with no problems and unrolled guards?

18x8.5+25

18x9.5+35

thanks

if it is stock height that will fit no worries, even with full sized tyres to the rims. Tho it may rub on the plastic splash guards in the fronts when turning hard, but it isnt hard to do that anyway. Nor is it a problem.

If you lower the car you will need to roll the rear arches.

I had 34R wheels on which are 9.0 + 30 with no dramas, new rims are a 9.5 so hoping all should be ok

didnt you check what clearance you had then when you had those rims on? that way you would easily be able to tell what ur working with.

Also your wheel alignmentsetup is going to play a part so what might fit on one car will rub on another...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...