Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 gtst 2 door

Advan RG2's 18x9 +29 all round.

235/40 Sumitomo's (minimal stretch)

Suspension lowered to minimum legal height ( pretty high )

Front guards untouched, rears slightly rolled but wouldn't need to be.

Rims sit flush with guards, perfect fitment.attachicon.gifimage.jpg

I hate you. I was watching these on eBay and had offered him cash when he told me they were sold. Dude had them on his Evo yes? They look great!

Edit: If you ever decide to sell - me first!

Edited by colourclassic

R32 gtst 2 door

Advan RG2's 18x9 +29 all round.

235/40 Sumitomo's (minimal stretch)

Suspension lowered to minimum legal height ( pretty high )

Front guards untouched, rears slightly rolled but wouldn't need to be.

Rims sit flush with guards, perfect fitment.attachicon.gifimage.jpg

needs moar low

  • 3 weeks later...

Opinion time. Deep dish rims for an r34 gtt. 18 inch or 19 inch (the rims look smaller with big dish)

18's would require pretty low ride height to achieve stance.

Going to be running 10-10.5 width at the front, and 10.5-11 at the rears.

Tyre size = 225/40/18

Lowered= yes, on king lows/bilsteins. not slammed.

Camber = whatever is possible with the stock eccentric bolts and arms. Not interested in mega camber.

Should be fine. Keep in mind rolling guards done properly will have no negative impact at all

Skyline model = 1996 R33 GTST

Wheel Brand = Volk TE37

Wheel diameter = 17"

Wheel width = 9"

Wheel offset = +22

Tyre size = 235/45/17

Modifications to fit = None (front wheels lightly nudge front bar at full lock, otherwise fine)

Hi mate,

Just wondering if you managed to do anything to fix this?? Was it much of an issue?? Looking at doing exactly the same for mine =)

Cheers!!!

Hi everyone!

Car: 1998 R33 GTST

Wheel brand: BBS LM replicas

Wheel diameter: 19"

Wheel width: 8.5 F, 9.5R

Offset: +20

Mods to fit: Fronts needed a 3mm spacer(spokes rubbed on the NISSAN writing)

Rears sit outta the guards still, the guards have bee rolled I think. Is there a way I can somehow "pull" the rear guards out by a couple of mm so they fit??

Opinion time. Deep dish rims for an r34 gtt. 18 inch or 19 inch (the rims look smaller with big dish)

18's would require pretty low ride height to achieve stance.

Going to be running 10-10.5 width at the front, and 10.5-11 at the rears.

The only problem with running those sorts of widths on the fronts on a gtt is the lack of guard. I had 9.5+22, and I had to remove the front liners for scrapage problems - and they sat completely flush with the guards. Now the issue here is, with a wider tyre, and non mexican spec, you will need a large offset, which you can't do as it will eat your suspension. I can't remember how much clearance I had with mine on, but I don't think there is much room for movement.

To get 10.5 to fit up front you will need something like +10 offset, 245/40 or less tyres, pumping guards, big camber, etc. Cause it will look mexican as fark with no camber.

Rears are 10.5+22 with natural camber and they sit nicely on the guard.

Rears shouldn't be out of the guards on those specs are u stock height? What size tyre?

Tyres are 265 35 19's

Car has tein coilovers, so it's lowered but not to excess....

Guards have been rolled a little(stuff all) but I can see where the tyres have scrubbed the guards on occasion :/

I will try and post photos(not working for some reason)

Edited by DGTS-T

Tyres are 265 35 19's

Car has tein coilovers, so it's lowered but not to excess....

Guards have been rolled a little(stuff all) but I can see where the tyres have scrubbed the guards on occasion :/

I will try and post photos(not working for some reason)

265 is a big tyre drop down a size still well within legal and should fix the problem I think

The only problem with running those sorts of widths on the fronts on a gtt is the lack of guard. I had 9.5+22, and I had to remove the front liners for scrapage problems - and they sat completely flush with the guards. Now the issue here is, with a wider tyre, and non mexican spec, you will need a large offset, which you can't do as it will eat your suspension. I can't remember how much clearance I had with mine on, but I don't think there is much room for movement.

To get 10.5 to fit up front you will need something like +10 offset, 245/40 or less tyres, pumping guards, big camber, etc. Cause it will look mexican as fark with no camber.

Rears are 10.5+22 with natural camber and they sit nicely on the guard.

I have gtr front fenders, and the rears are pumped and rolled +40mm.

Currently running 18x9.5 +15 all round.

I have gtr front fenders, and the rears are pumped and rolled +40mm.

Currently running 18x9.5 +15 all round.

Depenging on how much extra poke you want will depend the offset obviously.

I would go 18's, because of the possible slammage. 19's fit the wheel guard better, but also limit how low you can go.

Anyway 10.5+27 is essentially the same fit as what you have now, so depending how wide you want to go. I am not familiar with GTR fenders, but I believe they are around 20mm wider than GTT.. How wrong am I? Based off 20mm wider, I would go 10.5+15, which is 13mm more poke then what you have now.

On the rears... 40mm pump. Oh this is going to be sexy.

You could go 18x12+0? Or 18x11-12. The 11's are going to give dish all day, all week, probably most of next month.

Needs pictures.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...