Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

code of practice states diffrerent

Sorry but no.

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP11_Section_LS_Tyres_Suspension_Steering_V2_1Jan_2011%20v3.pdf

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx

And the code is still in draft and live so it does not come into play legaly, your state authority guidelines are the ones you must comply with.

Its a good read though.

And the code is still in draft and live so it does not come into play legaly, your state authority guidelines are the ones you must comply with.

Its a good read though.

wrong!

it already has....the standards must be met when engineer the car....we can have this debate all day but ive spent the last 6 months working on this and won...not to mention that my car was engineered in sydney to those rules

wrong!

it already has....the standards must be met when engineer the car....we can have this debate all day but ive spent the last 6 months working on this and won...not to mention that my car was engineered in sydney to those rules

Well then how about a link to said docs, as during my engineering process this came up as well, all the information I have come up with states that you cannot have wheels or tyres outside the body line, this is also what my engineer said, but if you have some new relevant information that can be backed up by a legal document that the local (i.e NSW RTA for example) will use for compliance then I shall be proven wrong.

Until then just saying Im wrong holds no weight.

Well then how about a link to said docs, as during my engineering process this came up as well, all the information I have come up with states that you cannot have wheels or tyres outside the body line, this is also what my engineer said, but if you have some new relevant information that can be backed up by a legal document that the local (i.e NSW RTA for example) will use for compliance then I shall be proven wrong.

Until then just saying Im wrong holds no weight.

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx

these regulations are a standard and are live....all cars (including modified must meet these) and YES these are not drafts these are the CODES that must be met

as i said i spent the last 6months in court over this exact thing and have the documents to prove it how ever i see no need to show these to you to prove you wrong...

Sorry but no.

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

http://www.infrastru...n_2011%20v3.pdf

http://www.infrastru...n/vsb_ncop.aspx

And the code is still in draft and live so it does not come into play legaly, your state authority guidelines are the ones you must comply with.

Its a good read though.

http://www.infrastru...n/vsb_ncop.aspx

these regulations are a standard and are live....all cars (including modified must meet these) and YES these are not drafts these are the CODES that must be met

as i said i spent the last 6months in court over this exact thing and have the documents to prove it how ever i see no need to show these to you to prove you wrong...

LOL

Your link was the one I posted up before, YOUR link states.

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

LOL

Your link was the one I posted up before, YOUR link states.

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

2nd to that i never stated anything about that link saying otherwise....

NCOP11 Section LS Suspension and Steering V2 01Jan2011 [dl_acrobat.gifPDF: 1319 KB]

4.2.3 Clearance

No part of the wheel must touch any part of the body, chassis, steering, braking system or

suspension under any operating condition. To check this, the vehicle must be fully laden and

capable of negotiating raised obstacles that would normally be encountered whilst driving such

as speed humps and driveway entries. This test should be conducted from lock to lock without

any part of the rim or tyre contacting any other part of the vehicle. Test weight for passengers is

68kg plus 15kg per person for luggage where luggage space is provided.

Section LS Tyres, Rims, Suspension and Steering

Version 2.0 – 1 January 2011 Page 21/LS85

The wheels must be contained within the bodywork , or mudguards (including

flares) when the

wheels are in the straight ahead position.

Steering and/or suspension stops must not be modified to provide clearance for wheels.

Skyline model = R33 GTS

Wheel diameter = 17"

Wheel width = 9" front 10" rear

Wheel offset =45 on rims using 30mm bolt-on spacers = 15 offset

Tyre size = 235/45/17 front 255/40/17 rear

Modifications to fit =roll guards

299619_4740367320688_491036213_n.jpg

321397_4740448522718_1212336204_n.jpg

16800_4734162885581_370505900_n.jpg

Edited by viinnh
01Jan2011[/i]' timestamp='1358223891' post='6707258']

the vehicle must be capable of negotiating raised obstacles that would normally be encountered whilst driving such as speed humps and driveway entries.

tumblr_inline_mg512u1eto1qbnggp.jpg

Wondering on fitment for r34 with no problems and unrolled guards?

18x8.5+25

18x9.5+35

thanks

if it is stock height that will fit no worries, even with full sized tyres to the rims. Tho it may rub on the plastic splash guards in the fronts when turning hard, but it isnt hard to do that anyway. Nor is it a problem.

If you lower the car you will need to roll the rear arches.

I had 34R wheels on which are 9.0 + 30 with no dramas, new rims are a 9.5 so hoping all should be ok

didnt you check what clearance you had then when you had those rims on? that way you would easily be able to tell what ur working with.

Also your wheel alignmentsetup is going to play a part so what might fit on one car will rub on another...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...