Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

could i suggest a printer? haha
you dont need extension cables

it reaches

all you have ot do is drill new holes in teh metal brackets since the hole alignment is different

i was going to do it, but hten didnt have all the tools i needed, so i never got around to it

Yeah, I was gonna say the same thing. The holes for installing your stereo, etc. into the metal bracket are in the middle of the unit, but the holes for the climate control are at the bottom of the unit, so if you used those then the climate control would probably sit half-way up a DIN slot, leaving a half-DIN gap above and below the climate control unit.

Well i bit the bullet and got it all plugged in and what do you know it all works!! only thing i have a problem with is how far the head unit sits out from the dash.... :whistling: its petty but i want it to be just right.

So its all out again and im going to have to manufacture something to hold the head unit firmly in. Couple of new holes to drill and some metal to buy me's a thinks.

Will post pics as soon as its done though.

Just a quick question, i can't be bothered pulling my doors apart right now, but can someone tell me if the 260RS Series 1 has removable speakers in the front doors? or are they factory glued/plastic welded types that will need cutting out??

Cheers peeps

Edited by MyStag260
Just a quick question, i can't be bothered pulling my doors apart right now, but can someone tell me if the 260RS Series 1 has removable speakers in the front doors? or are they factory glued/plastic welded types that will need cutting out??

Cheers peeps

cant tell you that. Havent got into that part yet. Although Simon AKA oureemphatemine" had done it. But havent seen him looged on for a long time.

cant tell you that. Havent got into that part yet. Although Simon AKA oureemphatemine" had done it. But havent seen him looged on for a long time.

Hey stasis, is the Dolphin dash replacement an acutal EL glow face? or are they just like the series 2 dash with white face, black at night with glow numbers?

Do you have any pics of it at night and day?

Cheers

Edited by MyStag260
Just a quick question, i can't be bothered pulling my doors apart right now, but can someone tell me if the 260RS Series 1 has removable speakers in the front doors? or are they factory glued/plastic welded types that will need cutting out??

Cheers peeps

The door trims are pretty easy to remove, probably the hardest bit is maneuvering the door trim around so you can get to the plug for the power windows and mirrors.

I'm guessing all C34 Stageas will be the same in this regard, the only difference being if the car was optioned from new with standard co-axial speakers or splits (like mine was).

The speakers are screwed into plastic brackets (front and rear) and if you buy 6.5" speakers they should bolt straight in. You might have to alter the brackets a bit, my speakers had bigger magnets than the factory ones, so I had to remove quite a bit of the backing around that area. (I took the lazy way out and just ground them away on a bench grinder until they suited.) The only other problem you may have is lining up the holes on the brackets to those on your new speakers.

A few people (like AlexCim, IIRC) have made brackets out of MDF.

The door trims are pretty easy to remove, probably the hardest bit is maneuvering the door trim around so you can get to the plug for the power windows and mirrors.

I'm guessing all C34 Stageas will be the same in this regard, the only difference being if the car was optioned from new with standard co-axial speakers or splits (like mine was).

The speakers are screwed into plastic brackets (front and rear) and if you buy 6.5" speakers they should bolt straight in. You might have to alter the brackets a bit, my speakers had bigger magnets than the factory ones, so I had to remove quite a bit of the backing around that area. (I took the lazy way out and just ground them away on a bench grinder until they suited.) The only other problem you may have is lining up the holes on the brackets to those on your new speakers.

A few people (like AlexCim, IIRC) have made brackets out of MDF.

Wicked!! thats great news i hate pullin sh1t appart only to realise i need to buy some more stuff before i can continue with the project... that usually means (A) the car sits in a pile of its own filth in pieces for a week or (b) putting it all back together again only to pull it apart again the week after. Option (B) is like your girl offering you a bj... very rarely happens.

Thanks

  • 1 month later...
Has anyone relocated their air cond/heater controls in their stag?

i just want to move it from the top to the bottom of my din slots..

they make extension cables with plugs in japan but if it's not a hard job i may as well just make it myself...

I'm going to do this because I have a double din Kenwood with a flipdown face. You cant use the drink holders, the face got stuck on a Coke can and was a pain to extricate.

What have people done regards to their factory speaker grills eg mesh, cloth ? The factory plastic grills look quite restrictive ie not 'acoustically transparent', especially for 6x9s which i have in the front, as the mesh opening is around 6" and not very much 'open area'. Do most people build new grills or modify the factory plastic ones ?

Edited by chook
  • 1 month later...

Another tip: To avoid mysterious intermittent clicking in passenger side console (due to AC diagnostics,) make sure your wiring harness is secured tightly in the AC control unit before slamming the head unit chassis home. Oh, and slam it firmly but gently...

  • 3 weeks later...

Better of removing the original plastic speaker mounts, tracing/cutting them out on some 18mm mdf.

Put some dampening material on the back of the new wood mounts then bolts straight back in nice and solid.

Get nice solid bass response no vibration...

6.5" way to go nice and simple no stuffing around...i'll put some pics of front and back later. when at home

Although in saying that I've got spare 7*10 Kenwwods that may just with some creativity.

Chook, they unscrew at the back of your door trim.

Take them out get a mould, or trace up your own version

then make new ones with cloth, don't hack the original stuff mellow.gif

Come to think of it i may do that, smoother look.

Do you think the plastic grilles would deflect the sound much, i was thinking along same lines?

got lots of holes though

What have people done regards to their factory speaker grills eg mesh, cloth ? The factory plastic grills look quite restrictive ie not 'acoustically transparent', especially for 6x9s which i have in the front, as the mesh opening is around 6" and not very much 'open area'. Do most people build new grills or modify the factory plastic ones ?

Couldnt install 6x9s behind factory grills, not enough depth. Installed pioneers in front without hacking trims, just needed to remove some door metal, MDF facia and backing plates. Rears went behind factory grills, same pioneer model, 6", got rid of factory plastic mounts for MDF. Also used sound deadening material throughout front and rear doors, sounds superb, a lot of work to get the postioning just right for the fronts, not much room for error, but well worth effort.

Chook, they unscrew at the back of your door trim.

Take them out get a mould, or trace up your own version

then make new ones with cloth, don't hack the original stuff mellow.gif

Come to think of it i may do that, smoother look.

Do you think the plastic grilles would deflect the sound much, i was thinking along same lines?

got lots of holes though

post-780-1195555327_thumb.jpg

Edited by chook

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...