Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking of getting this turbo this is the info i got over the phone

It is from America and the brand is Inovative its a T04E hybrid. (ITS)

Compressor: 57 with .60 cover

stage 5 turbine

.48 turbine housing

turbine is made from inconl or soemthing like that (apparnetly strong and more heat resistant than the garret turbo's so he says.

umm 360degree thrust bearing and its rated to 500hp apparently

i have also got prices on getting gtr injectors resistor pack and 040 fuel pumps.

The only mods i have are a full 3inch exhaust and a front mount. Engine is stock.

Is there anything else i need? will i need a air flow meter?

i am guessing i should be able to make a little over 300hp at the wheels reasonably safetly with a good tune and all these mods just not sure if i need AFM or anything else and if the engine can stand up to it.

ANy info greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86018-getting-a-to4e-hybrid/
Share on other sites

that would go well on a 1.8

it looks like a t3/4 highflow with an exhaust housing that is to small for a six cyl anyway

it has probably got a cosworth iconel wheel in it.(nice)

a .64 rear or larger would be sweet., very similar to the common r33 high flow.

There's nothing remarkable about any of that .

57 trim 76mm T04E compressor in .60 ARR T04E cover .

Stage 5 turbine also known as a T350 in Inconel and 5 bolt .48ARR T3 turbine housing .

This thing would be pretty laggy on an RB20 .

Fred from Turbo Logic once showed me a Garrett factory hybrid T3/T04E (TA34 series in Garrett speak) which the RB20 followers in the Gong like . It used a T3 turbine in an integral gate T3 flanged .58ARR housing with a 40 trim T04E compressor in .50 ARR cover . Do a search on Garrett T31/TA34 turbos .

Edited by discopotato03

post-7700-1125709228.jpgpost-7700-1125709295.jpgDiscopotato03, That T3/T04E garret factory hybrid sounds exactly what my turbo could be which is the factory fitment on GTS-Rs.

I have never been able to find any decent info on it except from what is written about it in the homologation papers which aint much.

Did it look like this?

well this is all very confusing. think if i do it i will get the t04 over the garret 2530 as the price for the garret to get fitted will probalby end up being way too much. (the gtr injectors and tuning is gona be heaps as well)

Will i need a Z32 AFM?

and will 300-350 atw be pritty unsafe for the engine?

oh yeah the price to get the to4 fitted is 2300 drive in drive out (set at a safe boost level as i will only have a FMIC exhaust and fuel pump untill i get the tune and injectors.

And the gt2530 will be around 2700 however the guy wasn't sure as i thinks it could cost more if he comes across troubles :)

i am guessing the garret is a better turbo that the to4 but supose it just comes down to how much i wana spend

AntonRX7 , do a search on 471182-0007 .

The first site shows a table of Ray Halls medium frame Garrett TB03/T31/TA34 turbos . At the second site (not in english) if you scroll down a bit there's a couple of decent pics of the 471182-0007 turbo that Fred reckons works well on RB20DET's . T3 flange , integral gate , 40 trim T04E compressor in .50 E housing . Turbine housing is .58 and even has a V-band exhaust outlet on it .

I know the one you saw has the large 57 trim compressor but don't forget that these are 3" or 76mm compressor wheels and its all too easy to go too big and create lag monsters which RB20's don't like . Look at FATGTS-R's pics of the compressor side , that's no huge trim wheel either . Nissan and Garrett would have had their heads together to spec the turbo for a limited production homologation special car (R31 GTS-R) so its worth a close look .

Personally I prefer more modern Garrett GT Ball Bearing turbos but finding something with a properly designed integral wastegate T3 flanged exhaust housing is difficult and expensive . At least that TB31 has no hard to get bits and would be cheap to service .

Let us know how it goes cheers A .

Discopotato03, For your information the specs I have of the turbo as stated in the Homologation papers are as follows:

Make and type: "Garrett turbo Inc. T3/TO4E"

TURBINE

Turbine wheel material: "special heat resisting alloy"

Number of blades: 11

Heights of baldes: 17.78mm +/- 0.25

IMPELLER

Number of blades: 12

Heights of blades: Larger 6, 24.69mm smaller 6, 18.2mm

There are also dimentions of entry/exits and internal dimentions of each housing but the diagrams are needed for them to make sense.

Yes homologation papers like to be specific , there was some controversy over the DJ RS500 turbos which had some "alterations" to the compressor . The scrutineers could see the difference but the measurements fit the specs .

Higher spec steel alloys are used for turbines that see prolonged use on petrol engines to cope with higher exhaust gas temperatures .

Cheers A .

yeah i think ill just have a think about it for a bit longer and maybe try get some more prices on getting the GT2530 installed as a lot of people do have them and swear by them. It just a lot of money when i have to get gtr injectors and stuff as well but i figure no point just going small with the rb25 turbo.

how much boost with the GT turbo should i be able to run with the stock engine with front mount 040 fuel pump and exhaust? if i have injector and tune?

and if i don't have injector and tune?

i have found a dual stage boost controler (turbosmart) for 130 would this be worth getting or would the turbo's boost be controler wiht adjustable wastegate actuator do the job better than a controller?

oh one last thing i won't need the Z32 AFM with the GT will I?

thanks for all the info and helps guys much appreciated just want to try make sure i have everything sorted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...