Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Im putting a Rb26/30 in my R32 and was wondering what sort ot RW and AWKW i could expect the mods are:

RB30 Bottom End CR of approx 8.8:1

CP Forged Pistons

Standard Rods with ARP Rod Bolts

Balanced Bottom End

Cam Gears

Power FC

R34 N1 Turbos

Nismo Fuel Reg

600cc injectors

Serviced RB26 Head

Exhaust from standard dump pipes back

Will this setup make 350rwkw and 300awkw?

Any suggestions or comments greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86101-rb2630-r34-n1-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Hey J

I have almost the same setup - but I have used the std RB26 bottom end.

I do have dump pipes – HKS style, with the short twin pipes from the turbo down to the engine pipe (+25awkw just from them I think)

I do have a 3.5” exhaust front to back

I also have the PFC and the Apexi EBC plus the R34 N1s, forged bottom end with std rods (linished and shot peened for good measure) with some minor head work too (competition valve seats are the main upgrade)

BUT I have not got 600cc injectors, I still have the std 440cc, and I still run with the std AFMs

Now for the good news - I currently get just over 300rwkw and about 292awkw running 18psi (easy)

I plan to change the AFMs and injectors within 6 months and expect to get to 350awkw comfortably.

My next upgrade ?may? Also include a bigger FMIC – and I hope to get the same power levels at lower boost (dreaming I know)

HtH

Cheers guys,

il post a dyno sheet when its done

Hey J

I have almost the same setup - but I have used the std RB26 bottom end.

I do have dump pipes – HKS style, with the short twin pipes from the turbo down to the engine pipe (+25awkw just from them I think)

I do have a 3.5” exhaust front to back

I also have the PFC and the Apexi EBC plus the R34 N1s, forged bottom end with std rods (linished and shot peened for good measure) with some minor head work too (competition valve seats are the main upgrade)

BUT I have not got 600cc injectors, I still have the std 440cc, and I still run with the std AFMs

Now for the good news - I currently get just over 300rwkw and about 292awkw running 18psi (easy)

I plan to change the AFMs and injectors within 6 months and expect to get to 350awkw comfortably.

My next upgrade ?may? Also include a bigger FMIC – and I hope to get the same power levels at lower boost (dreaming I know)

HtH

To give you an idea my mechanic did one of these with the N1 twins a few years back, and they couldnt find a dyno back then that could hold the car down to tune it out to redline.

They were using R32 N1s as well. It made 350rwhp at 4000rpm then just spun up on the dyno no matter what they did. And my mechanic said he would NEVER EVER put his foot flat in that car, it was too scary, yet he's fine driving 500+hp RVRs. That said, the engine did have a fair bit more work than yours.

Id say you will easy make that power and it will come on like nothing else. Will be one fun as car! ;)

To give you an idea my mechanic did one of these with the N1 twins a few years back, and they couldnt find a dyno back then that could hold the car down to tune it out to redline.

They were using R32 N1s as well.  It made 350rwhp at 4000rpm then just spun up on the dyno no matter what they did.  And my mechanic said he would NEVER EVER put his foot flat in that car, it was too scary, yet he's fine driving 500+hp RVRs.  That said, the engine did have a fair bit more work than yours.

Id say you will easy make that power and it will come on like nothing else.  Will be one fun as car! :P

Hmmm

one mans scary is another mans thrilling :(

Not that i disagree the gtrs arn't a good turbo, it's just i have not seen any of them product much better top end at all over (GT2560R/HKS 2530) for the reduced low down responce and spool up. It might just be no body has found the right setup or posted a thread on it. I think markgtr34 made around 570rwhp is the best i have heard about, but i know of plenty mid 500rwhp twin 2530/gt2560r/t517z etc so my point is ,is 20rwhp worth loosing bottom end and responce.

pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...