Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im using aluminium, buying a boxload off ebay from usa.... hhm, didnt even consider the rolling of the lip. Where can you get that sort of thing done?

Cheers, BW

I get my lipping done at GCG, takes about 10 seconds per lip. Mick's Metalcraft has one, as does Performance Metalcraft, so I guess all of the pipework fabricators would have one. So much easier than welding on a wire loop.

:P cheers :)

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks very much.

I'll work out what pipes are needed, cut down to length, and then head off to a 'metalcraft' store here in Adelaide to get some lips done.

Cheers to you for all your informative posts!

Brendan

I am just getting my piping done at my local tuning shop. I prefer getting all my work done at the same place and they can only do steel (dont have an alloy welder)

I dont care about the extra what, 5-10kg. I have come to realisation that a fat bitch will stay fat, no point to try an shed some pounds.

I am getting my pipes made like Ska's

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea12.JPG

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea22.JPG

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea23.JPG

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea26.JPG

Ill post some photos when the car arrives back.

At the same time, ill start a new thread and post photos of my cooler setup without the front bar on. Also, ill post those above of Ska's as Ska's setup. Would be good for a IC thread as terminal and burns both have kits, but me and Ska have custom stuff, so people will be able to easily see the difference.

  • 2 weeks later...

Updating. Will repost in a few months time in the dynographs section.

Now the Apexi intercooler is on, I'll be going back to Graham West Workshops in around 2 weeks time for the installation of the following:

Bosch 040 fuel pump, sitting low in the tankm with direct feed to battery wiring @ 13.8v

high pressure fuel lines, as per SK's suggestions

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Apexi Super Ignition Timing Converter

Nissan Z32 air flow meter

plus a retune of the Apexi SAFC at 10psi, with dual stage boost set up to 12psi for those 'quick sprints'

Saving up for the hiflow of my spare SII R33 turbo in 12months time - it was meant to be a R34 Neo unit, but it isnt... =(

Anyways, Im expecting mid 150's at the 4wheels at 10psi, and hopefully goes up a bit at 12psi.

Brendan

  • 2 weeks later...

Hiya all,

well the Stagea is now in the shop, the SITC is being installed as we speak as well.

query though: has anyone thought to use the 'emanage' piggyback rather than the SAFC / SITC / EBC combo? The tuners were surprised that I didnt go the E-manage route; admittedly I told them I knew nothing about the emanage until after I had the SAFC installed.

anyone thought of using the Emanage in their Stagea? if so, what sort of results have you got?

E-Manage has problems with the RB ignition systems. Quite a few R33GTST's and R34GTT's have blown ignitors/coils trying to tune via E-Manage. The E-Manage logic also has problems with the autotrans retard on gearchange. Plus they cost twice as much as they should for what they do. With the SAFC and the SITC you have the best system of piggy backs around.

:) cheers :D

Don't forget about the Unichip as an option for a piggyback computer. They also have EBC modules for them too :)

Worked fine on my old Stagea. Still had a slight dip in power (R&R) but I'm sure a tuner with experience with R33/R34's would be able to get a good tune out of it.

I pulled a tad under 170rwkw at 12psi with the Unichip with basic mods.

If you keep your eye out for one you can get them for about $350-400, and remember that they do both fuel and igntion maps and work fine with the auto's.

J

Thanks mate - I knew there was a 'reason' for you doing the SITC / DFA combo. Cool. Now at least I know more about the piggybacks and Rb engines than my tuner does! :)

Thank you very much for the information, not that I was going to change my route as such, just wanted to find out what the go was with e-Manage seeing my tuner brought it up.......

Will post up how it all goes.

Brendan

Cheers Jay....

Well its all happening now as we chat, so Im past the point of no return. Im sure the 2 Apexi units will work well together, and expect 155+ at 10psi and 165+ at 12psi.

Cheers for the note on the Unichip.

Hiyas all,

If you're intrested Ive had the car dynoed now, picking it up later this arvo, will post a dyno graph in the Stagea Dyno section later.

High pressure fuel lines were seen to be unneccesary, as the standard lines were in excellent condition and it may have been going backwards to replace the perfect condition jap items with Aussie spec stuff.

Bosch 040 fuel pump is done, SITC is installed, Nismo fuel pressure regulator is doing what its supposed to do and the injector duty cycle has come down a fair bit, & the Z32 afm is working and being read by the SAFC.

Apparently the tune is ok, for the budget parts Ive installed, a little up and down though. Have been reccommended that when I hiflow the turbo that I take off the FPR and use larger injectors, and take off the SITC, SAFC and EBC and replace it with an Autronic full computer.

Seems like a good idea, need 5k first! So I'll save for a year and a half and see what I can do there, but wont be worrying about all that for a fair while now. I'll be happy as it is for a fair while Im sure.

The Stagea is putting out 150kw....... up 7%.

Edited by bwilkeson

150 is pretty good.

Do you have a full exhaust? The std dump/front/cat's are pretty restrictive i would say and you should see a nice power increase.

I predict I am around 140awkw (or is that optimistic) with just full split/high flow cat/catback and fmic and 10psi?

140 is about right, thats what mine was on with those sort of mods. Maybe more due to the GTR cooler and the split dump pipe.

Ive got the full 3inch system with single dump pipe, best to see the South Australian section, titled "My Beasts", for details on the stagea and the fireblade.

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

had a look thru this thread and just need to know a few things guys. i have a series 2 (neo engine) would a turbo from a vl crumpledore be suitable as it will bolt straight on? as they are relatively thick on the ground, would it be a suitable swap as they are a bit higher flow rate as stock aren't they? or would it be better to get a completely different unit. if so any reccomendations within reason cost wise.

i dont want to go silly on the horsepower side of things but i want it to be a bit more responsive etc. without having to modify the engine internals at all.

i have a turbosmart e-boost2 fitted and am geting the exhaust done shortly, want to get a fmic as well in readiness for if i need to upgrade the huffer, but not sure which path to take?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...