Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The same thing happens in every single thread like this.......really who gives a rats arse who tuned it.

Williamsf1 made good numbers and he wanted to share it. good stuff mate.

sit back and relax and call jim up and ask why he uses 12 to 12.5 AFR on his tunes when others use 11.5 or so.

Cheers

  • Replies 288
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok the graph isn't easy to read, so I will have to get it straight....

on the final power run 313 AWKW the AFR does lean to 12.1 bot not more, also to note is that when using a up the tailpipe sniffer you will generally get leaner AFR's than lets say tapping into the dump collector like a motec on board system etc, so there is margin there, how much? I'd have to back to back it...

I was with the car 100% of the time, and never did I see Jim or anyone do anything but look after the engine, and this includes AFRs

His final word of warning was fitting, but also maybe missed on some people.... "don't use the high boost (313AWKW) for extended periods i.e. 20mins flat out! or your asking for it..."

the lower boost settings which is wastegate .84 BAR has more seat of the pants pull that the 1.4 BAR previously.... and AFRs??? 11.8 as they have been always BEL or CRD.....

If anyone needs to see my dyno sheet Jim is most happy to run you off one ;) AFRs included....

oh and Pauly... beer and computer = naughty posts! I will have to get stace to spank u!

very nice Ben. Great package all round i must say i can't really fault any of your mods.

On the built motor question from above, it is still standard internals? (pistons/rods/rings/etc)?

Enjoy it mate, 300+ AWKW is a nice figure for a street/track GTR. Should be farking awesome to drive.

No blown engines.....not a hint of detonation. Our AFR's are leaner than 12.4 too

LOL...are you sure you would tell us even if it did cook up a storm ;)

I know nothing about tuning, thats the first disclaimer, but for a road car and drag car with good support systems i wouldnt expect too much drama at that A/F

Like the tuner said, if you gave it prolonged curry for 20mins say at a track where your water temps get up over 100deg C, oil temp gets up to 130deg C...then i would imagine the combustion temps creap us as well and without that extra bit of fuel it could start to nudge closer to the edge...

But i would have thoguht the A/F you can get away with are related to the support systems you are running and the thermal control of everything.

By the way that sickening power from an engien that i imagine would be more responsive then a std RB26....us poor GTST owner have no chance :)

So it was you, your the reason that our car didn't get a tune! hahaha.

Nice numbers congrats and i can't wait until you start raising the boost a little.

I too have have a alot of work done at BEL,My old manual V8 soarer and the 33GTR.Great blokes but there tuning is not on the same scale as CRD.

I'm interested on what sort of times you car will now do around the circut.

Cheers.

very nice Ben. Great package all round i must say i can't really fault any of your mods.

On the built motor question from above, it is still standard internals? (pistons/rods/rings/etc)?

Enjoy it mate, 300+ AWKW is a nice figure for a street/track GTR. Should be farking awesome to drive.

To be Honest Richard I don't know... I've asked Jim before, and he can't remember as he has done so many engines... (I bought it with a new DART engine with 1200km on the clock)

All I can say is it never gets a knock higher that 17 and averages 12-15 full revs...

Like ROY said... fix everything else, and it will keep the engine safe, and I have done that....

Ok update time....

I went to DART this morning, and Jim did a power run on his dyno which I already know is accurate for a dynolog dyno (it was within 1kw of the original tune in the GONG on a dynolog)

so before :-

205 AWKW 585NM @ 1.43 BAR

now:-

270 AWKW 707NM @ 1.36 BAR

now that is what I call a real world gain...

dyno sheet below....

post-16093-1126830835.jpg

Edited by williamsf1
Ok update time....

I went to DART this morning, and Jim did a power run on his dyno which I already know is accurate for a dynolog dyno (it was within 1kw of the original tune in the GONG on a dynolog)

so before :-

205 AWKW 585NM @ 1.43 BAR

now:-

270 AWKW 707NM @ 1.36 BAR

now that is what I call a real world gain...

dyno sheet below....

Yep...that's huge.

Was Jason's dyno reading the same as Darts?

Ok update time....

I went to DART this morning, and Jim did a power run on his dyno which I already know is accurate for a dynolog dyno (it was within 1kw of the original tune in the GONG on a dynolog)

so before :-

205 AWKW 585NM @ 1.43 BAR

now:-

270 AWKW 707NM @ 1.36 BAR

now that is what I call a real world gain...

dyno sheet below....

good result . i would have to say darts dyno figures would be more (real world ) . im sure if you were to visit a third dyno shop i would be proven right . nevertheless a good result . you should have asked dart to reset your cam sprockets and check difference to get a real indication . i think youll be suprised to find not much at all . i know coz ive tried this with pon cams elsewhere.

Mik DART's dynolog dyno and Jason from the GONG's dyno read with the same initial tune 1 AWKW difference... so I was very happy that the dynolog system is repeatable...

GTRmadness...

the cams made well over 10AWKW with the rest of the timing adjusted accordingly...

I have the sheet with cam timing 0 0 below....

it is also a well known fact that dynolog dynos read quite a bit lower than dynodynamics.... (CRD type)

of note this morning the tyres were cold, and the ambient was same as before.... (205 run)

Jim @ CRD said the tyres alone will sap 10-20 when they get too hot....

interesting!

post-16093-1126835430.jpg

Edited by williamsf1
Mik DART's dynolog dyno and Jason from the GONG's dyno read with the same initial tune 1 AWKW difference... so I was very happy that the dynolog system is repeatable...

Yeah...that's good to know.

I'm just trying to work out how many DD AWKW my car had...never had the chance to put it on a DD dyno.

When I put my car on Jason's dyno, he had just had the software upgraded and was complaining that it was reading a further 15% lower than it did before.

I think it has since been upgraded again and it's reading about the same as it used to.

Mik DART's dynolog dyno and Jason from the GONG's dyno read with the same initial tune 1 AWKW difference... so I was very happy that the dynolog system is repeatable...

GTRmadness...

the cams made well over 10AWKW with the rest of the timing adjusted accordingly...

I have the sheet with cam timing 0 0 below....

it is also a well known fact that dynolog dynos read quite a bit lower than dynodynamics.... (CRD type)

of note this morning the tyres were cold, and the ambient was same as before.... (205 run)

Jim @ CRD said the tyres alone will sap 10-20 when they get too hot....

interesting!

Ben , i had a close friend dyno his power fc at croydon and finished with 280kw . he drove straight around the corner to silverwater autos new dyno dynamics awd and it the same car made 258kw over 3 runs , all within 2 kw. not bagging crd , but i dont believe dynolog reads ( much less ) . crd"s dyno has been proven to be happier than other dd"s or jim must be bumping it up for a good result , then detuning slightly so you can drive away safely.

Ben , i had a close friend dyno his power fc at croydon and finished with 280kw . he drove straight around the corner to silverwater autos new dyno dynamics awd and it the same car made 258kw over 3 runs , all within 2 kw. not bagging crd , but i dont believe dynolog reads ( much less ) . crd"s dyno has been proven to be happier than other dd"s or jim must be bumping it up for a good result , then detuning slightly so you can drive away safely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...