Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The full build up thread is over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=98086

I wondered why the name change happened.  What's the background to this for those of us obviously not in the know?

i got banned for warning perth people about a couple of dodgy businesses operating and i never once mentioned the shops names, and a few mods on here are good friends with this shop and got abit shitty because their shops getting a bad rep.

the said workshop is actually a sponsor making it even worse, and 99% of perth people say they are the best shop in perth and they dont have a damn clue, they might get an oil change and think they are the ducks nuts, but any technical stuff and they just tell you they dont know what it is and take it home and sort it and bring it back for more dyno runs when i fix it, pretty smart business operations :cheers:

i dont want another ban so i better keep quiet about it haha, but only the wa mods actually care anyways, and this shop is also the ones who smoked the clutch packs in the transfer case on the dyno and then told me its the transfer cases fault and its jammed in 4wd they said, haha, they just dont have a damn clue and i cant wait for more stories from these "gtr experts"

also all the pics look the same now until i get the whole bay done, so ill wait till then :D

cheers

Brad

thanks ska, its not like i lied and made up a whole load of rubbish, i dont see y people shouldnt be able to hear the truth even if its not what they wanna hear.

too many people reccomend shops before they get any substantial work done and people then expect some skills/knowledge from the shop, but i got asked from the shop doing my engine block machining (same said workshop) for the torque specs on the JUN stuff, i deliberately let a gtr specialist workshop do it and they are asking the customer for torque settings <_<

i had about 5-6 major issues with them and they let me down so i beleive people need to hear the truth :)

thats what cruises are for, then i can open my mouth and start spreading the word :P

thats all on the topic from me

Brad

  • 1 year later...

on a basic tune it managed 585rwhp on 18psi and 605rwhp on 22psi (misfire issues prevented anymore runs at the time), engine has just been finished again with more go fast goodies. This is only a pump fuel tune as well, more to come on c16.

Edited by unique1
on a basic tune it managed 585rwhp on 18psi and 605rwhp on 22psi (misfire issues prevented anymore runs at the time), engine has just been finished again with more go fast goodies. This is only a pump fuel tune as well, more to come on c16.

is that you bendon? aka cruiseliner?>

Hi buddy!! where the hell have you been? Didnt you have another nickname before unique 1? Hows your rig?

Hey Yudy i been checking the forums pretty regularly i just dont post often anymore as i havent much to add and i like to keep a low profile for fear of another ban lol. I had the stagea going strong last february and it made the power mentioned above and then it melted 3 pistons and my head as well, so i lost motivation and left it sitting in garage until july and then i started to order bits and pieces for it, i just got motor in last week and its currently being run in again for the 3rd time in as many years ;) It seems all ok and im planning on keeping power down abit this time on pump fuel, around 500awhp will be fine for the time being. I have added some other bits and pieces to the combo so it should make more power on lower boost hopefully :(

Im still gonna run a 10 sec pass and i dont plan on quiting until i do, it was awesome when i drove it last time on 520hp and i dont think many cars on the street would touch it except gtrs with same or more power. The 4wd launches are great fun lol

Hey Yudy i been checking the forums pretty regularly i just dont post often anymore as i havent much to add and i like to keep a low profile for fear of another ban lol. I had the stagea going strong last february and it made the power mentioned above and then it melted 3 pistons and my head as well, so i lost motivation and left it sitting in garage until july and then i started to order bits and pieces for it, i just got motor in last week and its currently being run in again for the 3rd time in as many years ;) It seems all ok and im planning on keeping power down abit this time on pump fuel, around 500awhp will be fine for the time being. I have added some other bits and pieces to the combo so it should make more power on lower boost hopefully :(

Im still gonna run a 10 sec pass and i dont plan on quiting until i do, it was awesome when i drove it last time on 520hp and i dont think many cars on the street would touch it except gtrs with same or more power. The 4wd launches are great fun lol

So pretty much, for someone wanting to oneday stroke their car(tomei kit), rear end needs doing, brakes alround... the auto take much or is yours manual now?

-Ryan

yes Ryan its manual as well, which will be lucky to last long on this power and weight of the car but time will tell. I have pretty much a gtr driveline with stagea shell on top its costly to change over to gtr parts and i would reccomend to buy a 260rs from the start as it will save time and money. When i bought my stagea in mid 04, 260rs wasnt even compliable yet and cost a fortune at the time, plus i had the rb26 running gear from my last car.

Edited by unique1
  • 3 weeks later...
I had the stagea going strong last february and it made the power mentioned above and then it melted 3 pistons

How do you melt 3 JUN forged pistons on a sub-600hp tune with a T04Z?

Who the hell was tuning that? PM if you fear teh ban.

How do you melt 3 JUN forged pistons on a sub-600hp tune with a T04Z?

Who the hell was tuning that? PM if you fear teh ban.

sub 600? 605 is more than 600 i think. I aint gonna tell anyone who tuned it as i remember the shit that went down last time i tried to warn people so illl just keep it hush hush.

Brad, what's the go with your car still not appearing in HPI magazine? I remember receiving the mag in the mail and seeing "RB26 Stagea" advertised on the cover, and then... Nothing... >_<

Brad, what's the go with your car still not appearing in HPI magazine? I remember receiving the mag in the mail and seeing "RB26 Stagea" advertised on the cover, and then... Nothing... :)

Ah, That's the 'jun powered stagea!' magazine I have on the coffee table: I was wondering whose that was. HPI messed me around with mine: wanted the car, got the specs,interviewed the workshop who did the work, spoke to the photographer for 2 weeks to organise a shoot, then....................silence. Not that it really bothers me, but it was rude.

Hey Nick, that was a stuff up from HPI (i think they mixed up the list of cars they had going in with ones they wanted featured in the future), they havent done anything since i spoke to Rick the WA photographer at motorvation last year. He said do a photoshoot just after the show last year but i wanted it tuned and makin good power and a drag time before they do the feature, so in the end the car shit itself before i could do it. I emailed Rick and he said let him know when its running again, but i still want those drag times and dyno figures, plus plenty of other bits (gtr front, rims, stack dash, etc) to add to the car before i think its ready for a magazine.

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...