Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

haehehheahe this is funny.. run "standard boost" then and see how long your motor lasts :D

it will last longer then having the pipe connected with no restrictor

try it then, let me know how it works out.

i have tried it... and yes... it was on standard boost...

it runs from the actuator which should be around 8psi unless its been modified.

(mine was on 10/11psi because it had an exhaust)

Edited by druzilla32

you are not f**king listening.

without pressure going to the wastegate actuators they will not open untill the pressure in the exhaust housing is great enough to force them open (by which point you will be getting lots of boost).

no i dont want any raised boost at all, thats why i dont want a bleeder. nooo bleederr :D an ebc will be on its way shortly.

anyway

i beleive if the hose to the SOLENOID is disconnected completly and there are no leaks from pressure to the actuators, then this should run standard boost. (or whatever the spring is set to)

Taking this in another way to what others have, in theory it should work. As long as you have a vacuum line running from somewhere to the actuators they will open on whatever the spring pressure is set at (7/8psi). You need to make sure there is nothing in the middle though, no solenoids, nothing, it just needs to be a vacuum line running straight from the actuators to a vacuum source (Tee it off one of the vacuum lines running from under the plenum).

If you've disconnected the hose that supplies a boost signal to the solenoid, then where the bloody hell is the wastegate actuator getting its boost signal? It normally gets it from the solenoid (the solenoid bleeds some of the incoming boost signal to atmosphere).

If the solenoid is getting no signal, then it can't supply any signal to the wastegate actuators. If the wastegate actuators don't get a signal, then they can't overcome the spring. If they can't overcome the spring they can't open the wastegate. If the wastegates don't open, then there is no bypass of exhaust gas around the exhaust wheel. If there is no bypass around the exhaust wheel, then the wheel just keeps going faster and faster. If the wheel goes faster, more boost is produced.

hmm..

no i think this because i have done it before.

i disconnected the hose and it made no difference to my boost

then i connected it with the restrictor removed and boost was up to 1 bar.

i can see where you are comming from, im just saying this cuz this is what happened when i did it. has anybody else in this thread drivin a gtr with the hose removed to the solenoid?

im gona use a life line...

hmm..

no i think this because i have done it before.

i disconnected the hose and it made no difference to my boost

then i connected it with the restrictor removed and boost was up to 1 bar.

i can see where you are comming from, im just saying this cuz this is what happened when i did it.  has anybody else in this thread drivin a gtr with the hose removed to the solenoid?

im gona use a life line...

mate you still dont get it

take it to someone who know what there doing cause you dont have a clue and your only going to cost yourself more money in the long run

pete

ps i'm out of this thread (waste of time trying to help someone who will not listen, no mater how many people tell him who to fix it)

mate you still dont get it

take it to someone who know what there doing cause you dont have a clue and your only going to cost yourself more money in the long run

pete

ps i'm out of this thread (waste of time trying to help someone who will not listen, no mater how many people tell him who to fix it)

I was wondering how long you guys would persist trying to tell him how not to stuff his turbos /engine again .

He just won't listen so let him find out the hard way again ....

I'll tell you once and only once , if you want to run the lowest possible boost you need to run a vacium hose straight to the ACTUATORS ( no holes no restrictors on the hose ) , then as soon as you have enough boost to push the spring on the actuators the wastegate will open and bingo no more boost !!! How much boost that is , whatever the spring takes to stretch , if you want to check that you can just run compressed air to it with a boost gauge on like .

If you want to run maximum boost take the hoses off the actuators and i can assure you of one thing , goodbye turbos ( stock ceramics i asume ) and more than likely goodbye engine .

Its as simple as that , the choice is yours ..... If you cant understand that DONT play around with your car , take it to someone that knows what they are doing . Dont even try to change the oil , more than likely you'll stuff up there too .

i can understand how to run minimum boost..

i was just told something that i had to query because of the rep of the person who told me this. (the removing hoses to actuator question) at the start of this thread i said i dissagreed and that it would run unlimited.

but does anybody know why my gtr was on standard boost with the hose to the boost solenoid removed? i also understand that it should have run unlimited.. but when it was done, it was still on 10 psi, it didnt spike or anything.

and the whole zip tie around the hose to the solenoid thing, is meerley a way of restricting the hose the same was as the brase olive would. but as somebody advised it migth not be a good idea because the tie might streatch when it heats up. so il get a new hose.......

but does anybody know why my gtr was on standard boost with the hose to the boost solenoid removed?  i also understand that it should have run unlimited.. but when it was done, it was still on 10 psi, it didnt spike or anything.

Maybe God was smiling on you.

could it be possible that without the solenoid receiving the signal it was put into safe mode... resulting in standard boost?

just a thought (cuz im not shitting when i say it was standard boost without the hose connected)

on one of my other gtrs that had the restrictor removed, i have had one of them run in safe mode and it wouldnt boost over 8psi (it only had a cat back)

Edited by druzilla32
could it be possible that without the solenoid receiving the signal it was put into safe mode... resulting in standard boost?

just a thought (cuz im not shitting when i say it was standard boost without the hose connected)

on one of my other gtrs that had the restrictor removed, i have had one of them run in safe mode and it wouldnt boost over 8psi (it only had a cat back)

Mate,

Whoever told you about removing the line running stock boost is a retard and should go back to having sex with their cousin's pig and not procreating so another tard takes up the rest of the worlds collective oxygen supply.

How are you determining it was standard boost? Are you looking at the stock gauge?

It's NOT possible the boost was put into a "safe mode" because the actuator is mechanical, it relies on pressure. If you disconnect the hoses you've mentioned you're removing the pressure the actuator is affected by (this has been said already!) What you're thinking of here is when your engine sees lots of air from the AFM (air flow meter) your computer will retard the timing and richen the AFR (air fuel ratio).. this is known as R+R.

If you want stock boost - do what everyone has said.

If you want a blown up car and annoy people - keep askin questions and not taking advice that's obviously in your best interest.

If you want to run no boost, wire up the wastegate actuator so it's always open (I'd be running my engine in like this).

Also, if you check howstuffworks.com there's some good info there on turbos etc they have a great diagram that shows how the wastegate actuator is actually actuated!

Not having a go but this thread is freakin frustrating... Beer Baron, wrxhoon, blind_elk - plenty of others have told you.

yeah i plan to do as the others have said, i will still be using the standard solenoid tho, and just getting a new hose.

the test was done on an aftermarket gauge.

You'll be right, 'bro!

Cant do too much harm having a go...... I think!! :(

Brendan

lol..

ive been ass rapped in this thread.

just saying what happened thats all, o well

Oh yeah, you gotta watch out for that nasty barrel that seems to be attached to your keyboard!! :lol:

At the end of the day, if in doubt, drop into a reputable tuner's workshop and ask for advice and directions - Im sure being face to face with someone and with the vehicle there to be seen, the tuner would be able to show you exaclty what to do. Maybe be prepared with a 6-pack of Bourbon and do it on a Friday arvo....? (ie ask the workshop owner to help out for 10mins and dangle a few bourb's in front of him - very attractvie if its 4.45pm on a friday arvo!)

Much easier then trying to interpret from typed forum information, if you're not too mechanically minded (and Im the first to admit that Im not, when it comes to turbo vehicles - the Stagea is the first turbo Ive owned). Im finding that its a steep learning curve........... I can work of my highly modified Fireblade (150rwhp, spent 9k on mods), but scared to go too deep with the Stagea.

You'll get there mate. We all do by the end of the day.

Brendan <_<

Edited by bwilkeson

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...