Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic, I was just wondering if anyone could tell me the approximate cost of getting either a new front bar painted, or a 2nd hand one resprayed. I am installing my fmic tomorrow, so I am looking at getting a new front bar without anything blocking the cooler.

At the moment I am just trying to decide whether to buy a new one, or find a decent 2nd hand one & get it resprayed to my car's colour. By knowing approx how much a spray will cost it will help me a lot, coz then I can know how much money I will have to spend. :(

Any help is appreciated, cheers, Nathan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88954-cost-of-front-bar-respray/
Share on other sites

Yeah, best bet is to go to a painter and ask for figures, to give you an example i had front bar, bonnet, gaurd,grill, door, rear 1/4 painted and some dents taken out for $1350?

But i know it costs around $400 just to paint the bumper bar if you get it done seperatly... Specially if they have to prep it, you might get a brand new one painted cheaper then you would say a second hand one that needs sanding back? Some painters demand that you get it sand blasted which they can do, or you can get it done yourself..

Dayne

It might be a good idea to to all the prep work yourself if you're looking to save some money. It's not hard to sand it back and put some primer on it yourself, just consult the spray shop first as to what primer to use. I've recently repaired and repainted my own front spoiler after tearing it in half on a curb, haven't finished it yet, but it's not too hard to do yourself.

I've done a few repairs on mine myself and just touched up the areas with a can of white spray paint. It turned out pretty sweet and you could only notice the dodginess from up close.

I never thought it would cost $400 though! That seems like a shitload of money to give something a once over with the spray gun.

just out of curiousity, what front bar are you replacing?

A savaged stock s1 bar. :P

And boostzor I am looking for one without the cooler being blocked as much, I am going to ring around for a type M because they look ok but I will just have to wait & see. Thanks everyone for the replies.

post-17137-1127897287.jpg

mate, that FMIC has heaps of airflow already...

improving the airflow might get you anouther 0.00001kW if that's what you 're after

if you are doing it for looks then that's another story but purely for airflow is a waste of $400...

Warren.

Yeah, I do agree with you, but it's not the main reason!! You can't really see it in the pic but the right hand side (looking front on) of the bumper sits a little bit lower, you can actually put your fingers under the headlightlight, a gap of about 1.5-2cm. Also the end tanks of the cooler are sitting very close to the bumper still, the left one I think sits on it. This may be part of the problem by putting a bit of extra pressure on it too.

I need to find time to take it off again & see what's going on, but I am fairly certain I know how to fix it. There is a round plastic piece (don't know what they're called) on the left that even with a screw in dosen't sit in with the bumper properly, but is does on the right & that is fine. It's not really straight, but there shouldn't be a problem with it.

Will sort it on Monday afternoon or Tuesday, I would rather not have to spend about $800 when it could cost nothing. :O

yer $400 is reasonable price.

wouldn't recomend doing the prep wk urself as u'll cock it up, and have to pay more for them to fix it or they'll just paint ova the top of ur shitty sanding job and get to kick urself in the arse everytime u look at it

try perth panel and paint in ozzy pk

37 omalley st

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...