Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

got my car dynoed a few weeks back but haven't had time to post up the sheet yet.

thanks to paul from hunter thomas automotive in newcastle who did an awesome job, i was hoping for about 200ish but 218 is awesome :D:D:(:D;)

mods r as follows

FMIC

fuel pump & reg

PFC

AVCR

HD Clutch

still running stock injectors, air intake, AFM, and everything else which hasn't been changed

post-9174-1127739210.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89010-2187-rwkw-on-stock-turbo/
Share on other sites

sard FPR, unsure which model. the lower of the 2

running a little over 1 bar, having been using it day in day out so far without problem.....touchwood

yes, good looking AFR curve

injectors hit about 92% duty cycle

using stock air intake

exhaust yeah sorry 3" turbo back

what reg you running? how much boost? is it a safe tune? what duty cycle are the injectors operating at? pod filter? exhaust (cat-back)?  thanks.

From those figures I believe

- 12PSI

- Stock rock ECU

- Turbo back exhaust (bashed out cat? :D )

yer? correct me if I'm wrong

Oh dear.........let's do some numbers.........

Standard injectors are 370 cc's

92% = 340 cc's

340 cc's in a 6 cylinder = 340 bhp

340 bhp = 254 kw

less 60 kw for losses in an R33GTST = 194 rwkw

218 rwkw would =12% increase in fuel flow

12% increase in fuel flow = ~40% increase in fuel pressure

standard fuel pressure is 36-38 psi, so +40% = 53 psi (above boost)

53 psi plus 1 bar boost = ~68 psi

I sure as hell hope you are not running 68 psi through the standard fuel lines and clamps, that is asking for trouble.

:D cheers :D

PS; 1 bar on the standard turbo, tick.....tick......

just curious how this figure was derived.

pretty run of the mill mate, search around. Lots of info.

Drivetrain loss is lies between 25-30% from the motor the the rear wheels.

SK have used approx 25% in his calc of 60kw

Cheers

Oh. and yeah, turbo wont last @ 14psi, not thats it'll be doing much above 10/12 anyhow.

also, above 1 bar equals a nice amount of hot air being rammed into your engine.

I'd be keeping an eye on that knock sensor..

and and for your info, I am running 11psi, and got 210rwkw. Why so much more boost just to get a measly 8 rwkw, and risk blowing your motor \ clutch \ turbo ?

dont mean to take over this thread, but just a quick question.. i got my car on the dyno today to see how much i got from the new apexi cat-back.. its a series 1 r33 GTS-T AUTO with just an apexi power intake kit and an apexi cat-back echaust.. it made 155 RWKW, does any one know if thats any good considering its an auto and pretty much stock?.. what would that be KW @ flywheel instead @ the wheels?... and does any one know how much KW a stock standard auto R33 has?.. thanks for the help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...