Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no mate these were top $$ genuine r32 n1 turbs. Steel wheel front and rear and 270o bush bearings.

Great for their day but only a lunatic would buy a pair of turbos like that for 6k or whatever nissan wants these days.

Unless the regs require it.

Tubro shop was:

Precision Turbo Chargers - John

51/97 Newton Rd, Wetherill Park.

02 9756 5757

BTW no idea where the foreign object ended up, we never found it.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hell yeah, and I've seen what some of the bandits want to rebuild turbos with steel wheels. My GTR turbs were about $2700 going by the receipt, but I'd be chasing some Garrett cheaters for that money, GTSS equivalents are about 1200-1300 each and look stock.

Hell yeah, and I've seen what some of the bandits want to rebuild turbos with steel wheels. My GTR turbs were about $2700 going by the receipt, but I'd be chasing some Garrett cheaters for that money, GTSS equivalents are about 1200-1300 each and look stock.

Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

Where is that from??

Could i bolt these onto an otherwise stock engine/support system for the time being? Same question for the GTSS kit. Thats my biggest problem really. I dont have the budget to go out and modify everything at this stage. Just want reliability..

Cheers,

Deren

Yeah, I must be getting old.. my new baby's totally standard besides a nismo rear muffler - and although I plan on doing the exhaust eventually I don't want it any louder :D

Certainly moves alright though.. it had 33,600km on it when I bought it so it's only just been run in! :D

Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

Where is that from??

Could i bolt these onto an otherwise stock engine/support system for the time being? Same question for the GTSS kit. Thats my biggest problem really. I dont have the budget to go out and modify everything at this stage. Just want reliability..

Cheers,

Deren

Anyone?

hahah don't ask me! I didn't even realise washers were bad for turbos!

Seriously though, larger turbos and everything else standard will work.....but not optimal, the injectors, afm and tune will all need doing to make the most of the turbos

Hmm well at this stage i dont even have a sports exhaust haha! The car was stock when imported. Never modified so im starting from scratch. So it'll be a decent improvement even with no support system mods?...Over standard anyway? My biggest query was that will it be safe to drive and run, ie:detonation...

Edited by Godzilla32
I put a screwdriver on the head next to my ear, and looked like a person with a screwdriver in my ear.

A fashionable alternative to a screwdriver in the ear, is a set of ear-muffs with a straightened coat hanger held to the outer of one of the ear cups.

P.S,

I'm sick of the gnomes getting a bad rap, so it's good to hear that no gnomes were involved with the destruction of this turbo.

A fashionable alternative to a screwdriver in the ear, is a set of ear-muffs with a straightened coat hanger held to the outer of one of the ear cups.

It works better if the coat hanger is bent into the shape of australia.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well kind of.

I made the people who built it:

Pull the motor out of the car

Pull the motor apart

Remove the gnomes while disassembling the bottom end

Take all the bits to the various machine shops

Pay for the machining and turbo repair

Pay for the new bearings, rings, oil pump, oil cooler, gaskets

And I am expecting them to

Reassemble motor

Seal all orifices to keep gnomes and similar out next time

Put it back in car

All the bits should be back from the machine shop in the next week, once we finally got started (12 months lol) it is moving pretty quickly.

Need to get it all back and running reliably since we now have a date with a bunch of tasmanian roads on 17-22 April next year.

Watch it on the Tassie roads, the gnomes tend too mark their territory down there on corners and stuff. Also next time just get a bigger tubbo so bolts, washers, gnomes and stuff can pass through the bigger fan blades and wont get broken.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...