Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

clean up the cut out part and practice on it?

they arent overly hard to set up, might as well practice on it, its only a 31, =P

yeah i've done a tiny bit of arc welding and i've got a tonne of rods (but no welder)

i don't think i could arc the 31 tho because the pannels must only be 1-1.5mm thick (rods are 2.5 so way too beefy)

anyone selling a cheap mig welder?

i belive you can hire MIGs at a pretty good rate.

like everything a cheap welder will give cheap results. a half decent one will do a good job with a bad operator.

dont get a gas less mig. may as well stick weld it.

Do like, the GT-C's will look mint ( if your still putting them on it )

Nothing really new on my car put on a new intake pipe ( stock one with a section cut out & filled with a piece of pipe ) as i found my old one had a rather large split on the underside

new pod ( +25kw :laugh:)

oil change & filter

just waiting till next week to register it and finish my pipes so i can have it all ready for time attack ( being a poser on the hill :sleep: )

c36020120308201745resiz.jpg

Edited by Autumn33

just a quick question, would having the wires to my tps cut have anything to do with why my car wont idle till warm? drives fine while cold just wont idle, only way i can get it to idle is unplug the afm till its warm. (just realised the plug has been cut)

Or could it be my acc valve?

Has all the tubes from the tb missing also but ive read that wont affect it.

Will be cleaning the acc tomorrow to see if it helps.

just a quick question, would having the wires to my tps cut have anything to do with why my car wont idle till warm? drives fine while cold just wont idle, only way i can get it to idle is unplug the afm till its warm. (just realised the plug has been cut)

Or could it be my acc valve?

Has all the tubes from the tb missing also but ive read that wont affect it.

Will be cleaning the acc tomorrow to see if it helps.

Dose your idle controll valve have a hose going into the cooler pipe work pre-throttle body?

The TPS has 2 sets of wires, one is the throttle signal, and the other is the idle switch. Your idle switch is cut, so your car will idle like shit. Also is the TPS isn't adjusted properly, the idle switch will never activate.

Edited by sav man

Dose your idle controll valve have a hose going into the cooler pipe work pre-throttle body?

For some reason i have a breather on the aac valve. Has a T piece with a breather and a hose that leads to a black plastic box :wacko:

Edit: managed to get my phone down there to take a pic, not the best but it shows what i mean about the breather & the black thing.

post-71390-0-27323600-1331469773_thumb.jpg

Edited by Autumn33

yep pretty simple. where that air filter is that line needs to be plumbed onto the turbo side of the throttle.

that would be sucking un metered air during cold start and idle. its a wonder it doesnt stall when you stop at lights.

that black box thing as you described is a heat activated air bypass valve. or cold start valve. its fully open when the car is cold and as the block warms up it closes off. it also has ignition power to it to help it close off. this is why under cold start imports rev heigh for the first few minutes then slowly go back to normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Order for the 2025 model R35 GT-R were accepted from 3rd March and 26th August the last order rolled off the production line at the Tochigi plant. Concerning the R35 GT-R replacement, current Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa said "Nothing has been decided about the GT-R at this time, but we are well aware that everyone is waiting. The GT-R will evolve and reappear in the future. Please be patient until that day comes." Nissan has a lot of issues with management and finances so take Espinosa's words with a big grain of salt. From what discussions I've had and read about here in Japan, not a lot of people are confident about Nissan's future, let alone the next GT-R. 
    • Thanks. We getting some parts along too so he will be solving the speed issue like next week so i will let you know what he came up with.   
    • 21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.
    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
×
×
  • Create New...