What's Going On With Everyones Cars?

[MatthewT85]

so i have noticed my top radiator hose connecting my engine is leaking a bit with what looks like some corrosion around where the clamp is, will look at it tomorrow, cause the cars hot atm, just wondering how you can tell if the water pump or thermostat is stuffed?

also on a stockish 33 where should the temp gauge be sitting, lately ive noticed it at pretty much half way, but for some reason think that when i first got it ti was lower

[MatthewT85]

so went and took the top radiator hose off to check... and found something i def didnt want to see, the bottom part of the bit the rad hose fits to had rusted! took a photo will upload when i can, so searched the forum to see if there are any fixes, found a thread where one person said they had to replace the entire lower plenum, if thats what its called.

another person said hes just hammered in a pipe slightly smaller to fix it,

i guess replaceing the whole thing is the best, is the second an ok option?

any other ideas?

for the moment cause there was enough still remaining i moved the clamp so its actually sealing... or seems like its sealing, but def gonna need a fix soon!

[zoidbergmerc]

Are you talking about the bit on the engine or the bit on the radiator?

[MatthewT85]

bit on the engine

pretty much like that, cant figure out how to upload again :S

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/391336-radiator-rusted-pipes/

Edited November 27, 2012 by MatthewT85

[Bushy]

The rusted pipe is a press fit into the bottom half of the inlet plenum, so with a bit of difficulty you can crush it inwards and remove it, then if you know a machinist you could get them to make up a new piece with the right tolerances to press in. I have been told you can buy this piece but I couldn't find one, there's no part number for it in FAST so I doubt you would get it from Nissan. So it would probably end up being easier for you to buy a new inlet manifold.

[MatthewT85]

thanks yeah thats what i was told by a mechanic, he'd seen it a couple of times, he also said that someone like midas could make one up easily, not sure now if i want to try and remove the old piece myself now... :s

yeah nissan dont make that part which sucks, did try and see if aftermarket plenums had the same size but couldnt get it separate to find out so looks like getting one made or new inlet manifold is the way... which is also a lot of messing around

[zoidbergmerc]

oh, the motor I'm about to buy comes with a plenum that I don't need! Would you like to buy it?

[XRATED]

You could probably get someone to tig an ally fitting on in place...

[MatthewT85]

yeah ive now been given that option, radiator place said they would remove the plenum nad then weld a piece on, mechanic said theyd remove the pipe and fit a new one, i think what im going to do is just get it removed and then new one fitted, and if anything goes wrong then yeah will be looking for a plenum... hopefully wont come to that though. but ill keep it in mind!!!

[zoidbergmerc]

go go ally fitting, it'll last foreverest then.

[MatthewT85]

so about to do an oil/filter change on my car, was wondering what everyone uses to remove the filter, mine was previously done by a mechanic, so who knows how tight its on....

i went down to supercheap and have seen things like these...

http://autotulsablog.com/wp-content/uploads/store/products/thumbnails/1366600846836841.jpg

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Super-Works-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Cam-70mm-76mm.aspx?pid=13035#Description

http://www.apextrading.co.uk/media/catalog/product/s/t/strap_filter_wrench_1_1.jpg

im kinda leaning towards the first option, cause it looks like it would work best...

[Baz_R32]

So I finally got around to getting another 32..

Mods:

Carbon bonnet

GTR wing

GTR grill

GTR front bar

Front & rear strut braces

Bosch 040

Tein coilovers

Rota grid wheels

3" exhaust

Fmic

Basically sums it up..Hunting down some M-spec skirts then doing a respray in the silver

[XRATED]

so about to do an oil/filter change on my car, was wondering what everyone uses to remove the filter, mine was previously done by a mechanic, so who knows how tight its on....

i went down to supercheap and have seen things like these...

http://autotulsablog...00846836841.jpg

http://www.superchea...035#Description

http://www.apextradi..._wrench_1_1.jpg

im kinda leaning towards the first option, cause it looks like it would work best...

Use K&N filters... they have a 3/4 nut on the end of the filter. Makes it super easy to get off. And they're an awsome filter.

I wouldn't bother with a strap on an rb.

Justin.

[Autumn33]

Few new pics of mine, not much new made up a metal intake & removed blow off valve,removed a/c control/vents as it was stuck on 22 degrees all the time & removed the rear section of the exhaust(did that a few months ago)

Pics:

[Baz_R32]

So I've organised for the minor body work to be done next week, Just trying to organize someone to repair x2 tiny cracks in the front lip on the front bar & a crack in one of the side skirts, Then I'll be removing odds & ends & taking it down to the booth for a complete outside respray in the same color + painting the carbon bonnet aswell

**Sat side skirts on to see if they would suit, I'm convinced"

[lawler]

been awhile sence ive been on here. now got another 31 with allready a few good parts in it

nistune, gtr injectors, kkr430, cooler, 3 inch, cusco s13 coilovers, s13 knuckles and hubs, bride seat, 15x8 super lights.

allready gone xf throttlebody, s13 lca, moded knuckles, n14 rackends, s13 tie rods, hydro hand brake and 17x9.5 +18 drift teks, flip cooler and shorter pipping

[MatthewT85]

ok so previously i had been getting a mechanic to change oil, i think they were using penrite hpr 15 oil, which i think is 15w - 60, was talking to my bros tuner and he recommends castrol edge 10w - 60 so when i decided to do the oil change myself switched to that.

i have noticed with old oil, when cold start it would be at 6, warm 2, cruising 4.

switched to new oil and cold start is just about 4, warm 2, cruising somewhere around 4 is this down to difference in oil?

or has gauge randomly stuffed itself, or could something be wrong????

also all on stock gauge...

also changed fuel filter at the same time, but doubt that matters

Edited January 8, 2013 by MatthewT85

[XRATED]

Don't trust the stock guage... they don't accurately reflect oil pressure. The variation in reading on the guage is the different oil you are using.

[MatthewT85]

yeah ive read that, i thought oil would be the change just checking, been a bit paranoid...

[pipster11]

0 f**ks currently being given about the stagea atm

chenged the caster bushes and front upper inner control arm bushes to superpro adjustbale ones and changed the rack bushes too

still haven't had it aligned so i've been driving the 31 to work

found while it was on the hoist that both inner cv boots are toast and the grease has gone all milky looking (must have been like that for a while)

and the passenger side rack end has a slight bend in it too, awesome

oh, and i had pedders inspect it a few weeks ago and didn't notice any of this even after i told them that i nudged a kerb pretty hard on that side

also, my awd isn't working cos one of the rear tyres is more worn than the front tyres and it keeps feeding power to the front on the highway

turbo is on its way out

needs a tune

and generally feels like a massive ball sack to drive atm

/rant

Edited January 9, 2013 by pipster11