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By hardsteppa · Posted
Got my R34 gearbox around 4-5 weeks ago. Came into some extra $$ recently and after I cleaned the mess off the notes, I thought, might as well buy that R34 box I've been pondering. In that time I've pulled the engine out, replaced rod and mains bearings, done a few other engine things that are much easier with the engina out eg PRP oil pump upgrade, replacing wastegate coolant lines, installing Turbosmartass turbo oil pressure reg, made some mounting brackets for some of my mods that are "hard to reach", converted the R34 box to R33, put the engine and new gearbox back in the car. Plus cleaning ...Oh my god so much cleaning when doing such a project. Yep I'm a busy bee, buzz buzz. As part of the gearbox project, researched posts and found this thread (In which i nailed it for the OP), hence the post here # logical thinking.. Not all about you old boy, SOrrryyy. Dare I ask, how's yours going ,> Or you got it done yet, and if so why didn't you post any of the tips I posted to help other members? ??? -
Seems to be the case mate , still an OK price for a grey import. -
I’m interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they’re still available. -
@GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case: No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 -
Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
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