Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

well ive seen a few threads of the type recently, so thought i might post one up also for those intrested.

R32 GTR tunning a HKS T04R with a 0.96 exh 18psi.

415kw at 4 wheels

Will be out at willowbank as soon as i can hunting to flog my current pb.

415.GIF

thanks

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93091-hks-t04r-dyno-results-400kw/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 146
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

absolutely awesome

and to all the haters get bent. lol

it stays on boost between gear changes 5500-8000 is all i need.

:)

hehehe

nah seriously, car doesnt get driven around town, i have a charade for that, this is for racing :)

yeah for sure, i was expetcing to need a little more boost for 400kw.

but im happy obviously.

it has the 0.96 exh side thats more top end etc.

for the track no cat (as on dyno) 4inch exhaust, 60mm hks gt wastegate, mani, strong motor with head work and mild cams.

it done many runs, all over 400kw once tuned etc.

mick

yeah defo

like i say on paper, it shows little mid range etc and doesnt look the best tbh.

but on the street when going hard it stays on boost so thats all that matters from my standpoint. keeps pulling through all gears.

really a 9k rev limit might help out as the turbo really looks like it wants to keep going hey...

michael

I thought I might have a bit of fun with this power graph using a couple of data logs that I have seen recently as a basis. What the following numbers do is simulate what it would look like if you have a video camera pointed at your tacho during a perfect run.

1st gear average power assuming 5,000 rpm held at launch

8,000 415 rwkw

7,500 410 rwkw

7,000 380 rwkw

6,500 340 rwkw

6,000 275 rwkw

5,500 200 rwkw

5,000 140 rwkw

Total 2,160 rwkw

Average 309 rwkw

1st to 2 gear average power assuming 2/10th second gearshift

8,000 415 rwkw

7,500 410 rwkw

7,000 380 rwkw

6,500 340 rwkw

6,000 275 rwkw

5,500 200 rwkw

5,000 140 rwkw

Total 2,160 rwkw

Average 309 rwkw

2nd to 3rd gear average power assuming 2/10th second gearshift

8,000 415 rwkw

7,500 410 rwkw

7,000 380 rwkw

6,500 340 rwkw

6,000 275 rwkw

5,500 200 rwkw

Total 2,020 rwkw

Average 337 rwkw

3rd to 4th gear average power assuming 2/10th second gearshift

7,500 410 rwkw

7,000 380 rwkw

6,500 340 rwkw

6,000 275 rwkw

Total 1,405 rwkw

Average 351 rwkw

Average of all 4 gears = 326 rwkw

If the above result is actualy achieved you are looking at an ET of ~10.6 seconds with a TS of ~210 kph. If you can speed up the gearshift by 50% you are looking at an ET of ~10.4 seconds.

It will be interesting to compare the actual results after you have had a couple of runs.

:angry: Cheers :P

PS; I have assumed standard R32GTR gearbox and diff ratios and a tyre circumference of 2,050 mm (ie; = 245/45/17).

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...