Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What would happen if one removed the rear steering rack with the lines that run into the "junction box" (I've got no idea what to call it!) and simply put 2 bolts into the holes that the lines came out of?

The power steering pump rear rotor would fail

:) cheers :w00t:

Alright guys i took some pics just before (meant to post earlier but got stuck into wiring up the new battery feed >_<)

img13031kp.th.jpg

img13056ud.th.jpg

img13066nh.th.jpg

img13084xc.th.jpg

The hose i got was heater hose as it needs to be oil resistant. And yes i do know there aren't any clamps on the new hose yet, i still have to get them :D

Hope that makes things alot clearer. If you want any more pics, let me know

Hmm...

I recently had the rear steering rack removed and one of Geoff's HICAS lock bars fitted. Where the two hoses were removed along with the rear rack, bolts were inserted to plug the open threaded fittings. I assume from your post Gary that this isn't the correct way to perform the job and will need a hose that runs between these two points in order to keep the fluid flowing?

ok, i have compltely removed everything that looks like or even smells like hicas on my car....First remove rear rack replace with the lockbar...rip out every power steering line that goes to the back of the car and just follow them where they go into the valve system near the plenum...you can completely remove the valve system no worries....remove the pipes that is meant to be a cooler. remove the hicas resoviour, buy a r31 steering pump a a 3 slat belt to suit. you will need a spacer to space the pump away from the block a bit to clear the cam cover....i used a s14/r33 power steering resoviour, all the pipes hook up nicely to the pump from resoviour and steering rack....ok now under the rear parcel shelf there is a silver box that is the hicas ecu...you can unplug that....Now once you have hooked up the new basic power steering system with the r31 pump and new resoviour....you will notice you have very jolty steering and it will be hard to turn the wheel backward and foward quickly and it will feel like shit.....this is wher some people dont know about...BUT if you look on the actual steering rack iteself you will notice that there is a electronic valve on it on the drivers side with 2 wires coming from it....unplgu it and unbolt this solenoid...Watch out cos fluid will piss outta the rack....then you will see 2 holes in the rack that the fliud comes out of what u need to do now is get some steel or alluminium sheet metal only need enough to cover those holes...so cut out a peice and drill 3 holes to bolt the plate to seal these holes.......once sealed you will have very very light steering...make sure you fill the resovoiur up full when you start the car and then watch the fluid or else the steering pump will sound like its scrapping things...and top up as nessecary. NOW what that little solenoid on the steering rack does is bypass the fluid from the rack back to the resovoiur so that you dont get much fluid in the rack creating hard steering....once its covered the fluid stays in the rack causing very light steering....

Anymore questions about it just pm as i have done it all myself.......also i weighed up the sutff that is removed and subtracted the new stuff put in to make this work and it works out to be a 21.5kg loss of weight......so really youll go faster and use less fuel :dry:

What a timely thread discovery! I just pulled all my hicas stuff out of my cefiro as the previous Jap owner had put a lock bar in. He only put nuts on the ends of both hydrolic lines that use to go into the rear Hicas rack - meaning there would be an obvious build up of pressure at the rear end of the car as the fluid couldnt go in a cycle. Let it be said that nearly every seal in my main steering rack must be fked, as i go thru more power steering fluid than I do petrol.

Im currently replacing my steering rack with a s13 or s15 rack, and I will most likely put a tranny oil cooler in and run the rear part of the pump to that.

Im yet to comprehend what sort of piping and fittings i'll need to do this from reading above - but if someone can assit me that would be great.

My idea is to have the rear output of the pump go to the cooler - using about 1m of hose, then from the cooler back to the HICAS resovior. But will this still have too much pressure going back into the resv? I dont want an explosion of fluid everywhere if I can help it!

thanks!

JK

Edited by jaik

i just thought i'd get someone to clarify this before i start hacking away on my power steering lines.

on a r32 gtst, looking at the hicas solenoid in the drivers side of the engine bay...

Line 1 goes from oil cooler to hicas solenoid.

Line 2 comes from bottom of engine bay into the hicas solenoid.

What is the best way to make the connection to line 2? there are no rubber hose sections that I can find, they are all metal screw fittings. Do I unscrew one of the fittings and just hacksaw the screw bit off? What's the best way to approach this?

From what I understood of what sydneykid posted, you can just hoseclamp the rubber hose onto both line 1 and line2, but i can't find where on line 2 that this can be done without hacksawing off one of the screw fittings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...