Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I just ordered one of those Tomei HICAS Lock Bars....I have been told it stiffens up the rear end (,gets rid of the HICAS dash light) and makes cornering more "driver controlled" ... is that right?

Also, is the power steering fluid reservior a smallish container next to the brake booster. And does it look like a small brake booster setup?. I'm asking because what ever that is, on my GTR, it has very dirty fluid in it and was wondering how I could drain it out to refill it?

cheers

Also, is the power steering fluid reservior a smallish container next to the brake booster. And does it look like a small brake booster setup?. I'm asking because what ever that is, on my GTR, it has very dirty fluid in it and was wondering how I could drain it out to refill it?

cheers

No that is for the clutch booster. The power steering reservoir is next to the air filter box in the engine bay.

ok.. so is this where you can loop it?? ts just on the RHS under the starter motor...where the fuel lines, etc go to the back of the car as well there is about 6 pipes going back there.

this is for R32 GTS-T but I assume its similar to GTR HICAS setup.

post-1332-1137988270.jpg

Hey Gary, did you get a chance to take some pics of the loops at all?

Cheers

PS got my swaybars and alignment stuff on Friday, thanks

Hey Gary....picsorban....everyone is waiting...it sounds like the ideal setup...love some pictures to see what/how you did it....a picture tells 1000 words....it also saves a lot of typing.

The R32GTST is in the workshop in pieces, I will have to assemble the HICAS bypass to the suggested method. It is currently being modded to take a larger power steering cooler.

I am not in the workshop, I don't go there every day

There is no digital camera in the workshop, last time I took the digital camera to the workshop it got borrowed and dissappeard for 3 weeks. The time before that I went to take some photos and SOMEONE had let the batteries go flat. You know who you are.

There is no PC in the workshop and no internet connection.

When I am next in the workshop with a digital camera with good batteries, I will take some photos, then I will take the camera home, photoshop them, write some words on them and post them up.

In the interim .................. IT AIN'T THAT HARD.

Find the power steering cooler connections (there are only 2) and follow them. The outlet goes back to the reservoir, that is not hard to find. If you follow the other connection (that's the inlet) you will find that it goes to the HICAS solenoids. Remember which hose it is, I will call it hose #1.

Now follow the outlet pipework from the HICAS pump, that's the rear stage on the power steering pump. You will find it goes under the engine, and comes out near the HICAS solenoids. I will call that one hose #2.

Using a short (about 150 mm) long piece of rubber (low pressure ) power steeing hose join #1 to #2. Don't forget to use hose clamps.

All up it should take less than 10 minutes.

:P cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

How do the wheels return to 0 degrees on the '32 gtr system?

The diagram seems to imply that there is a spring, so that when the pump is not on, it will return to centre.

I am asking, because my gts4 has had the wires cut to the hicas unit, and somehow the rear wheels remain straight...

Perhaps my GTR is different, or I'm looking at the wrong pipes, because when I follow the piping from the rear stage of my PS pump I only see high pressure hose and screw on fittings?

Yes, that's correct, what else did you expect to see?

;) cheers :huh:

From reading this thread I was expecting to see a clamped rubber hose somewhere between the pump and HICAS solinoid, isn't that hose #2 from your previous post?

last time i looked there was a small giraffe eating a ham and pineapple pizza :mellow:

gurglr i think what sk is saying is that once you loop the line so it bypasses the hicas solenoid there is no pressure so no need to use pressure hose.

last time i looked there was a small giraffe eating a ham and pineapple pizza :D

gurglr i think what sk is saying is that once you loop the line so it bypasses the hicas solenoid there is no pressure so no need to use pressure hose.

Ok, but its pressure hose all the way from the pump to the HICAS solenoid.

Hose clamp fitting on the input to the cooler, hose #1, but where on hose #2 to join a low pressure hose and clamp?

Ok, but its pressure hose all the way from the pump to the HICAS solenoid.

Hose clamp fitting on the input to the cooler, hose #1, but where on hose #2 to join a low pressure hose and clamp?

if hose #2 = cooler outlet to solenoid, substitute that and run a low pressure one from the cooler outlet all the way to the reservoir. clamps are fine each end. use existing plumbing where you can. if you're saying that you have high pressure cooler outlet fittings maybe it is different.

if that doesn't make sense post up a couple of pics, maybe it is different.

mine runs pump>rack inlet>rack outlet>cooler> reservoir but it's a little different to the set up described here and has the 2nd stage removed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...