Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have an R32 GTR and would like to upgrade the radiator. Does the 33 or 34 GTRs or any other Nissan models run a larger core that would fit?

I Just bought a Greddy/Trust Alloy Radiator from www.Nengun.com for my R33 GTS-T. You might find something for your GTR at a very good price. There are some nice accessories for sale also (eg- Full alloy Radiator pipe etc...)

Cheers.

Race Raditors here in Melb do them... bit smaller than the PWR one by the looks of it.

$660 though, fair diffference pricewise. They might even have bigger ones!

Quite larger that stock (i forget mines size), and i cruise around with 70-72degree temps on a 20ambient day.

Yet to drive on warmer days at this stage.

Yours is a 40mm jobbie from Race Radiators, Ash.

I have the same.

A 57mm requires removal of the factory shroud and possibly clearance issues with power steering pump.

I spoke with the owner of Race Radiators - he said to go with the 40mm and keep the shroud, as the 57 may be an obstruction on the street witout the shroud.

also, if the 40mm is good enough for Ben from RacePace's 600rwkW GTR at the track then my piddly 250rwkW will do just fine.

$660 at race radiators :P

Yours is a 40mm jobbie from Race Radiators, Ash.

I have the same.

:P i was told no need for a uber large one either :P

keep the stocker shroud and all of that too... but they dont make those air dam/directioning things for mine, but not like i need it

Where from?????

nengun and i think greenline do similar price also

Thanks for everyones thoughts.

Anything has to be better than the standard standard 32mm unit!

the gtr r33 24mm

the gtr r34 18mm

Just a simple question, is there any disadvantage of having a larger radiator? eg as large as it would fit?

was sitting on the M4 in standstill traffic in the head and water temp was getting abit over the 90's and just got me thinking.

Just a simple question, is there any disadvantage of having a larger radiator? eg as large as it would fit?

was sitting on the M4 in standstill traffic in the head and water temp was getting abit over the 90's and just got me thinking.

Disadvantages are threefold:

1. It's going to cost you more.

2. It is going to weigh more in the exact location that GT-R's don't need more weight.

3. It is going to take longer for the car to get up to working temperature - more engine wear.

Also, I understand that much above 40mm thick is difficult to install without moving shrouds etc. Just don;t quote me on that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...