Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im missing the before pic here but the buildings are approx. 80m away. The car is pointed upwards. In situations like this there is a stupid amount of foreground light (directly in front of the car) which is why I made up fore ground limiters (a bigger shield) to block some of it. I decided to drive around for a bit without them for a while first

the before pic there wasn't any real light on the building, it stopped at the cars

post-83906-0-84641200-1406900688_thumb.jpg

Nice work, massive difference aye.

Yeah the damn glass diffuses the output, I have like multiple cutoff and orange/yellow-ing.

I also found the driver's side projector to be pointing too much to the driver's side (from factory?).

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah its the glass shape, if it were a smooth curve most of this will probably be eliminated.

Im looking to borrow a H3/H3C (maybe H1?) HID kit if anyone has a cheap kit they are not using. I wouldn't mind seeing how the stock projector goes with some mods. Mainly thinking of shortening and making a custom cut off shield and foreground limiter.

Only need 1 side for 4 weeks max, prefer Sydney, im in Bankstown area

Euro Lux are bright and wide. They have ECE cut offs so expect to blind everyone in front of you on the side which has no real cut off. I was in front of one and it was reflecting off my side mirror, super annoying and distracting, I couldn't get my head out of the way. If you use them make your own cut off, if your following a cop and he see's that kind of stuff from his side mirror he will book you

  • 2 weeks later...

Iv just ordered FX R stage IV with the following options

attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1409967046.647053.jpg

Thank to tom for help too cheers dude

Just had a quick look on TRS for you, if you're using D2S bulbs I'm not sure if you should be getting the 9006 relay or not since the H1/H3 relay is if you get H1 or H3 bulbs. Maybe start a chat with TRS and see what they say.

Just had a quick look on TRS for you, if you're using D2S bulbs I'm not sure if you should be getting the 9006 relay or not since the H1/H3 relay is if you get H1 or H3 bulbs. Maybe start a chat with TRS and see what they say.

That wiring harness is correct. Input is H1/H3, output is 9006 (what the Denso's have).
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...