Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Problems solved. Use this thread as a reference if you have shaky a steering wheel!

Hi. just got my skyline gtst 2 weeks ago. After getting to know the car better now, I've found that my steering wheel wonders a little bit now and then (esp at slow speeds on pokey roads around Canberra). I've also noticed that the steering wheel shakes noticeably when doing about 100kph and or stopping really quickly (ie stomping on the brakes).

I have Ziex 326's on 18" rims. I read in some tyre threads that the Ziex are really bad and could be the cause of my problems. The suspension is completely stock, stock engine (cept the exhaust).

Are the tyres a likely culprit? I thought there had to be something seriously wrong (and there WAS, read on) with the suspension for the steering wheel to shake like that...

Edited by sl33py
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94003-wheel-shaking-and-tram-lining/
Share on other sites

Check the front bushes, also check wheel balance and alignment if you dunno how then take it to a suspension specialist for a "free check"

Your wandering problem could be a simple case of "bump steer" the wider the tyre the more noticable it'll become, warn bushes will exagerate the problem.

Hi, the front bushes are brand new, they were replaced as part of the conditions of me buying the car cos the NRMA report said they were shot :D

Yeah the tramlining isn't tooo bad. It's more the shaking I was worried about, and then the fact that ppl said the 326's are rubbish and maybe i'll spin out when i could have better tyres and more grip.

hmm maybe not balenced properly my friend got some 18s on his r33 and and balence the rims and tyres but not with the spacers they had to put on to clear the brakes! And the steering wheel shook something special at 100km/h

  • 1 year later...

Haha just saw this again! Old thread, but still have the same problem. Thought I might update it in case one day someone suffers the same problems.

@ above: Nope, I don't have spacers.

Anyway, since posting here, I've had the wheels balanced and aligned about 5 or 6 times at various places. My rears were found to be both pointing to the right, so it was like having the back of a turned forklift on the car. I had a front camber kit (I think) fitted to help cancel some pulling to the left I had, because there was more camber on the RHS, meaning it was like I was on a permanent camber tilted to the left.

But I've still got the steering wheel shakes. At low speeds, It's a mere shiver, which has passed under the eye of many a "tyre guy" either unnoticed or "that's just the road mate". But sometimes (can't recreate the conditions reliably :P ), the steering wheel just shaking violently left and right, and it doesn't represent how rough the road is at the time. It sometimes does it badly on very flat freeway.

I took it to another place and they found that my car was on its front bumpstops. So I got new shocks, springs and bumpstops all round from SydneyKid's groupbuy (I kind of felt like an upgrade anyway, and didn't want the front and rear geometry messed up). So now it handles pretty darn nice on corners etc with not much roll at all now, but... it STILL shakes.

So we put it up on the rack and had a VERY good look at all the bushes. We found that the front steering rack mount bushes were shot. And also my rear cradles bushes are munted. Mechanic said he'd never seen them in this condition on just a 10yo car, usually on R32's, so he was pretty surprised. He found some more bushes he couldn't say for sure were fine. I've had this wheel shake problem for nigh on one year now, and it's really bugging me now, so I said "if in doubt, swap it out".

I don't have the list on me, so I might mess up some of the terms/names here, but basically we're changing every single bush in the suspension except for the ones at the top on the front (mechanic doesn't know of replacements you can get for them), and the ones which I think hold the rear steering rack where it joins to the wheel. I'm also getting a HICAS locker. Also getting adjustable rear camber rods. That's all ordered (one part apparently is made from scratch and takes 2 weeks) and it should be fitted within 3 weeks.

Mechanic said after this, there really isn't anything else that can be replaced, so I'm REALLY hoping this fixes the shaking. Sure, it handles nice overall at the moment, but when I feel like an old man cos of the shakes after driving, it's not much of a consolation :action-smiley-069: My mechanic said my car is still one of the smoothest he's driven (and he's had lines in HPI, so he's seen a fair few), but when I first bought this car, I could do 180kph and barely even feel any untoward shaking/shivering in the wheel compared to what I do now. I don't mind feeling the road (feedback) through the wheel, but it's gotta represent what's under me at the time, not crazy random shaking!

And I won't even go into how much all this troubleshooting has cost me, cos at this point it's just me VS the car until I get it sorted, I run out of money and go bankrupt, or I run out of patience and drive it off a cliff!

Will update this with developments as they happen. One day I'll get to power upgrades...

  • 1 month later...

Further Update: Steering wheel still trembling/shaking. Car's currently getting every possible bush in the suspension replaced (ignoring a few which are OK anyway, and replacements couldn't be sourced). Rear cradle bushes were shot. Front steering rackmount bushes were shot. Turns out one of the steering rack tie rods ends was munted, one was average, and the rack itself is bent. Hoping like h3ll this is the last of the problems because a) running out of time and patience, and b) mechanic says there's nothing left to change after this anyway!!!

Nope, no damage to the wheels. I've had the wheels/tyres of one of the workshop owner's on my car for a few days and the car was doing the same, only less intense because he has larger profile tyres, hence a little more give. And nope, no spacers.

When i bought my r34 gtt it had a brand new set of antyre tyres on it. Long story short, they were terrible.

Similar symptoms to what you describe, on the freeway i had a shake in the wheel anywhere over 100kph,

Grip in the wet was terrible and dangerous. ect ect,

I got a set of potenza adrenalin re001's. All the problems dissapeared and the grip levels are amazing in comparison.

  • 2 weeks later...
It was the rack. It's all fixed now. After all the replaced parts, if I had to describe the car in one word, it would be: TIGHT. Lovin' it :P

Sl33py, when you say "it was the rack", what exactly did you replace???? the whole rack??

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

By rack, I mean the front steering rack had a slight bend in it (one of the arms I'm guessing?). It was straightened and also reconditioned and now everything is great.

Edited by sl33py

I can't believe that your mechanic couldn't find a simple problem like a worn tie-rod, especially if its been happening for over a year as they should check for play in the front end and rear when your rego inspection is carried out (NSW anyways) this should easily have been found and the business of changing every thing is poor dianostic work to say the least!

This is the reason you see people on A Current Affair crying about owning a lemon that has had XXX number of parts chnaged XXX times when in fact the company/workshop were just guessing what was wrong, throwing parts at the car without actually finding the cause of the real problem.

I'm glad your car is fixed mate but I'd find a new mechanic and name and shame all the places you got a wheel alignment done as they should also have discovered the problem as well.

Just my opinion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...