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raz0r$harP.UK

By raz0r$harP.UK,
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raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

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Posted

UPDATED 1 JUNE 2007. STAY TUNED FOR SOME MORE ADDITIONS!

Headunit Installation

Virtually identical for all but here's discussion for

R32

R33 - with links to pics

R34 - courtesy of r34gtt.net

Stagea

Wiring up your headunit

Nissan Wiring Harness information - verified as correct by me :D

Need a DIN pocket?

Just head to your local Nissan dealer. Any post-1996 Nissan car (eg N15 Pulsar) will have a DIN pocket that will fit in your Skyline.

Antennas

Jap - Aussie antenna conversion - you need an adaptor. The Aerpro AP348 is $15 from any stockist (Autobarn, etc)

Can't pick up radio on a Japanese headunit?

If your headunit reads on the Japanese FM frequency (~75-90kHz), you'll need a frequency/band expander to compensate. Pick one up from your local car audio store - the Aerpro AP745 costs $19.

That, or get a new headunit :)

Sound Deadening

It's one of the most effective ways to improve the sound in your Skyline! If you're outside your car, knock the body panels and listen for that hollow 'tin can' reverberation. I'd go so far to say that deadening at least part of your front doors is mandatory if you are concerned about decent sound.

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raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

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Speakers

The factory speaker sizes were as follows:

R32 - 4x6" front, 6.5" rear (Plate in front doors will see a 6" in there)

R33 - 6.5" front/rear - mounting depth is approximately 57mm (as measured by me!)

R34 - 6.5" front/rear - deep speakers are not a problem. There are no constraints with mounting like the 33.

6x9s will fit in the back fairly easily, need a spacer.

6x9s will fit in the fronts not so easily (again you'll need a spacer), but still doable.

Predator's spacer template for front R32 speakers

Changing rear speakers in your Cefiro

Changing rear speakers in your R32 (including parcel shelf removal)

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raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

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Subwoofers

Wiring up your subwoofer

There are plenty of ways to wire up a subwoofer, depending on how many subs and amps you have, their configuration, etc. Crutchfield has put together a fantastic guide which shows you how to wire up as many as four subwoofers to your car. Check it out at the following link:

http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/...ers_wiring.html

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raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

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Troubleshooting

Help! I've installed my system and now I get a whining / hissing sound from my speakers!

Wayne Harris has written a fantastic article which covers most types of noise, and contains step by step information on how to isolate the problem in your car. It is a MUST READ if you are trying to troubleshoot. Read the article here: http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html

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raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

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Wiring Diagrams (care of Chris Rogers)

Tacho addition:

http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfWiring/3.pdf

(this is the current RSM diagram - gives speed ,tach,ign wiring off ECU)

R32 - RB20

P23 diagram:N4a

R32 GTR - RB26

P23 diagram N4B

R33 - RB25

P23 Diagram N4C

R34 - P23 also :D

-------------------------------------

R32 stereo wiring

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

when following this diagram the black wire on your radio goes to frame! nowhere else.

---------------------------------------------------------------

R33 stereo wiring - SEE R32

------------------------------------

R34 Stereo Wiring

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

use the 2nd diagram. for R33 S2 - use 2nd diagram.

-----------------------------------

V35/M35 base spec:

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

2nd diagram. DO NOT attempt this on a BOSE VERSION! it has an ENTIRELY DIFFERENT SETUP and you WILL kill something. cars later than 05 are CANBUS so be VERY careful here.

------------------------------------

34 GTR display info inc swapping to non GTR dash.

Here's a good guide for transplanting the MFD into an ER34.

http://flatout.main.jp/driving/parts/bnr34mfd

Here's an excellent guide for transplanting the MFD into an R33

http://www.geocities.jp/yossyi_bcnr33_carbon/inpure/MFD.html

An AV cord to output TV onto the MFD (Clarion part #:855-5430-00)

http://pub.ne.jp/BNR34/?entry_id=89518

MFD pinouts

http://f14.aaa.livedoor.jp/~lindwurm/bnr34/diy/mfd/mfd.htm

----------------------------------------------------

PIVOT START BUTTON

http://www.pivotjp.com/download/download-e.html

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  • 3 months later...
turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

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R32 Owners:

If your planning on installing Amps and Subs, something you seriously need to think about is the grounding system in your car.

The standard grounding system in the R32 (I am using a GTR as my reference point) is adequite for a headunit, and for the standard Skyline electrical system, but if you add high powered audio amplifiers, D-class monoblocks, and other hardware, then the stock grounding from the battery will be insufficient to power your gear.

The biggest give-away that you have a grounding problem is that horrible engine noise that you sometimes get through your speakers, this is caused by the Alternator powering your device instead of the power feed coming from the battery.

Electrical Theory:

Basically, Electrical current (against popular thought) actually pushes the electrons FROM the positive terminal or power feed TO the negative terminal or Grounding point. If the grounding point is not up to the demand, then the Positive feed can not push out as much amperage.

If your system is a sh1t-hot system, but you have the stock 8-gauge grounding fromt he battery to chassis to engine block, and your running a 4-guage power feed from the positive terminal to your amp(s), then when the system gets cranking, the system will bottle-neck at the 8-guage battery - chassis ground, and start demanding power from somewhere else that can both feed and ground adequitely.

Guess what, the only other powersource in the car that can possibly meet the demands of your high-end audio gear is your alternator, so the system starts feeding from power from the Alternator as well as the battery, and thus, you have engine noise.

How to fix this problem:

Head to the local Jaycar/JB Hi Fi, Dick Smith Electronics, Etc, and get yourself a car battery terminal that will fit your battery. Next, get yourself either 4-gauge, or even some 0-gauge wire, probably about 2 meters will be sufficient, and your set to start work.

Basically, you need to remove the current grounding from the battery to chassis to engine block, and replace it exactly as it's installed currently, but with the thicker wire.

Remeber, current needs a clean path, so have some sand paper on hand, and where the cable gets grounded to the chassis, clean the metalic area completely until it's beautiful and shiny, then strip back the cable sheith and bolt down the cable (I like to use some clear-coat once this is done, to provide a barrier against oxygen getting into the freshly sanded metal and attracting a rust-spot).

The bitch is grounding to the engine block, but with some patience and time, you will be able to get under the throttle body and undo the current ground and replace.

This will resolve 90% of engine noise from from an R32 GTR's audio setup, if you still have engine noise, you haven't grounded the amplifiers correctly, but that's for another How-to or informational thread.

Thanks.

B.

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SCHSLYF Enthusiast

SCHSLYF

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i'm sure you can fit an 8" in a good box in the trunk with no problem. i've got room for a box holding two 14"'s in mine and the amp as well--have you got some other mods taking up your trunk space?

with ever increaseing range of flat subs you should be able to purchase a good sounding sub that wont take up much room.

these go fairly well http://kicker.com/compvt_subboxes <--- you can get them pre boxed in 8" 10" and 12" or you can get the subs on there own in the same sizes as well as a 6.5 inch which would need a custom box, or you could mount it in the rear speaker slots.

pioneers version also goes well. http://www.pioneer.com.au/en/Products/Car%...Subwoofers.aspx (scroll down they are there, however i couldnt be botehred to find pre boxed versions but they do exist) these are from a 8' to 12" only as far as i know.

i beleive a few other brands have had a go, but these are the only 2 i have actually heard and seen playing.

so if you like your boot space, these are the way to go.

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  • 7 months later...
R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

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Thread from the dead.

Regarding subs in an R34, yes there is HEAPS of room wtf are you guys on about lol.

If you have a factory 17" mag instead of a space saver and your no longer using the plywood sheet there is a nice spot on the left hand side (the wider wheel sits up more creating a nice slot either side) that will fit a 12" sub in an average size sub box. (warning don't put a large box there as it may move in the way of the hinge locking the boot shut, but a normal size wont)

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Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

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2009-2010 R35 GTR Alarm diagram

MODEL YEAR(S) GT-R 2009 -2010 KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER N/A N/A NISSAN'S TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, Requires Bypass Module, See NOTE #1 PART COLOR LOCATION 12 VOLT CONSTANT GRAY (+) 40 AMP @ BCM, (BLACK, 3-PIN PLUG), PIN 1, NOTE #2 STARTER BROWN (-) @ PUSH-BUTTON IGNITION Switch or BCM, (BLACK, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 18, NOTE #2 STARTER 2 LT. BLUE (-) @ BCM, (GRAY, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 21, NOTE #2 IGNITION 1 RED (+) Low Current @ BCM, (BLACK, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 11, NOTE #2 IGNITION 2 YELLOW (-) @ BCM, (GRAY, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 16, NOTE #2 IGNITION 3 N/A ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 ORANGE (+) Low Current @ BCM, (BLACK, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 31, NOTE #2 ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 ORANGE (+) Low Current @ BCM, (BLACK, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 24, NOTE #2 KEYSENSE N/A PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) RED (+) @ DASH FUSE BOX, (WHITE, 10-PIN PLUG), PIN 8 POWER LOCK PINK (-), TYPE B @ BCM, (GREEN, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 17, NOTE #2 POWER UNLOCK BROWN (-), TYPE B @ BCM, (GREEN, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 20, NOTE #2 DOOR TRIGGER GRAY (-) @ BCM, (GREEN, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 39, NOTE #2 DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION PURPLE (-) @ BCM, (WHITE, 16-PIN PLUG), PIN 16, NOTE #2 TRUNK RELEASE GREEN (-) @ BCM, (GRAY, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 36, NOTE #2 SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A HORN WHITE (-) @ HORN Switch, (GRAY, 8-PIN PLUG), PIN 8 TACH LT. BLUE (AC) @ POWER STEERING CONTROL UNIT, (WHITE, 12-PIN PLUG), PIN 10, NOTE #3 WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A BRAKE PINK (+) @ BCM, (GREEN, 40-PIN PLUG), PIN 7, NOTE #2 FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS from FACTORY REMOTE ONLY!! ANTI-THEFT NISSAN'S TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, Requires Bypass Module, See NOTE #1 EXTRA INFORMATION NOTE #1: NISSAN'S TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, Requires Bypass Module, Part # 791 or XK07 (For REMOTE START ONLY) Part # DLPK-CANBUS MULTI (for REMOTE START and DOOR LOCKS) NOTE #2: the BCM (Body Control Module) is located in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL. NOTE #3: the POWER STEERING CONTROL UNIT is located under the PASSENGER DASH, behind the GLOVE BOX.

Edited by sapphiregraphics
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