Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to get the seat rails moved back (bolted further back in the car) or leave them where they are, but extend the rails (weld extra lengths on) so the seat has more travel.

Does anyone know which option would be easier or more feasible? Who can perform this work? I imagine I will need to get it engineered?

This will be for the drivers seat. I've noticed in the R33 the front part of the rails is bolted to a raised section of floor, thus if you moved it back you would have to straighten this piece out. Are there any other things which come to mind?

Has anyone else done this to an R33?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95123-seat-rail-modification/
Share on other sites

Nope I haven't ever tried this, but I can't see how you would extend the rails, it would have to be moving the rails backwards. Basically you need a good workshop to help you out I'm sure they can extend the mounts to give you an extra bit of room.

Maybe new rails could be fabricated that are longer. I don't know that you could do that at home though.

I'm also 6'5" (nearly 6'6") and I have no real problems with my R34. I need to lay the seat back a bit when wearing a helmet though.

Maybe you could get a race style seat (I think Ducan can get them :)) as this would sit you lower giving you more headroom.

Do those seats need new rails?

Headroom isn't really a problem for me, it's more legroom as most of my height is in my legs.

If my left foot is on the clutch fully depressed then my knee fits comfortably under the steering wheel, otherwise, with my foot just resting on the clutch, my knee does not fit under the wheel and has to sit to the side of the wheel. Obviously, the same applies to the right hand side.

Although a spacer or dished steering wheel could possibly free up some room for my knees, my arms are already close enough to the wheel, so I'd like to actually make the seat further away.

What are the mounts that the seat is bolted to? Are they special reinforced areas of the chassis such that you couldn't simply drill new holes to mount the seat further back?

Thanks for your help guys.

You can't just move the mounting points further backwards, you need to fabricate a mounting plate the rails will go to the plate and the plate will bolt to the seat, you can get a couple of inches here easilly without too much trouble but I wouldn't go past 15cm. You will need this engineered as well.

Yes the mounting points are specially reinforced and new mounting points would need to be as well. But its not that easy because the floow is nothing like flat so the rails need to take that into account.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 years later...

I'd be careful and ensure that you get any seat mod engineered, I can see popo having a field day on this if you just do a back yard job. Esp. if you also do the passenger seat and are then involved in an accident - or sell the car and it is involved in an accident.

  • 1 year later...

Mine have been moved back on bride rails but on r34 sunroof still no headroom at 6'2" but large build not skinny butt

I'm back about as far as legal you cant be passed a certain point on the B pillar or seatbelts wont work now i need monkey arms cause I have to lay the seats back still ( new seats as well)

Wilshire motor trimmers does seat mods and engineers them in adelaide but wanted to do serious mods to the floor pan mounts etc , 1400 to do 1 drivers seat , just regular mount passenger side and the customer service was lame so didnt use them , still not happy with seating location , going to look at dropping the seat inside the bride rails to gain 40mm or so

Sunroof cars loose 30mm headroom per sales manual , Damn jdm cars with no leg room lol

Funny thing is when I was in japan I saw some tall asians , like 6'5" only thin as a rail , wonder if they cuss the local cars too ?

I am 6 foot and there is around 10 inches clearance from the roof lining to my head, plenty of room, even to slide a helmet on in the car.

Sounds like you need to sell the 34 and upgrade to a V35 or M35 Stagea. :)

I'm 6'8" and actually don't find my 33 GTR too bad (relative to my Datsun 1200 Ute anyway!).

In Melbourne there is a business in Coburg (Franks Engineering) that perform seat modifications and engineers them.

I seem to remember them being pretty good price-wise.

I am 6 foot and there is around 10 inches clearance from the roof lining to my head, plenty of room, even to slide a helmet on in the car.

Sounds like you need to sell the 34 and upgrade to a V35 or M35 Stagea. :)

Hmmmm NO

R35 2013 black edition modded to hell YES

My old dodge 4x4 v10 extended cab fit ok haha piece of crap

To fix the problem - ADR rules in bin and do it even better like a rollcage with backing plates thru the floor and add crossbracing for side impacts lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...