Jump to content
SAU Community

Gb: R33 Gts-t And Gtr And R34 Gtt Radiator Guides


Recommended Posts

Oh, Series I Stags and R33 Series II people, the folder hasn't done them on the weekend but promises them to me at the start of next week.

BASS OUT

  • Replies 520
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Oh, Series I Stags and R33 Series II people, the folder hasn't done them on the weekend but promises them to me at the start of next week.

BASS OUT

The start of next week (this week) has come and passed so has the folder kept his priomise or is it another week?

I spoke to him an hour ago and he hadn't done them. :(

So tomorrow I'm going there at lunch to use the machine myself to do them.

Hey Guys,

I have bent up all the R33 Series I guides, all the R34 Guides and the main panel of the Series I Stags.

The scoop of the Series I Stags is going to be this week.

The Series II GTS-T and the Series II Stag guides and scoops are on order at the new place and will be ready in a couple of weeks.

If I was able to refund the monies I would but I have to prepay to get this work done so the money is already in the parts.

BASS OUT

You already stated above that the SII GTST were to be folded by yourself coz the guy had not done them....now your saying they are on order at a new place.

Which is it...are they cut and unfolded or not even cut at all? It appears you're deceiving the people who gave you their money as this group buy was clearly not organised properly from the outset.

Darkboy.

I just looked back through my posts and I apologise.

I meant Series I stag and Series I GTS-T

Please accept my apologies.

I make no qualms that I have turned this group buy into a balls up.

I totally and unashamedly offer my apologies to everyone for the length of time this has taken.

As some of you know, during the group buy, I have changed jobs and this has reduced my access to easy design and supply of this things to virtually nil.

I am replacing all the first batch of R33 Series II guides because they are wrong which = money out of my pocket because of my stuff up.

I'm trying to do everything right, but unfortunely things didn't go to plan.

I WILL supply everyone with their parts and they will be as close to spot on as I can get them.

Next time I will do things very differently.

Sorry again,

BASS OUT

post-6399-1162961131.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...