Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thank you for yet another informative answer there dezz.

As krzysiu said. FM is generally decent transmition but it's no where near as good as a digital transmition or direct conection. So you will never get as good quality which is unfortunate cause i also enjoy just listening to the radio a fair bit.

FM radio is about 2/3 of the quality of normal cd audio. The first thing you lose is the depth of the bass when you transmit in this manner. Basically the transmission leaves out bits.

All you have to do is increase the bass on your eq or whatever you use for that. Some head units can have different settings for radio and cd.

I was about to suggest that... all the head units i've come across require you to set the bass/mid/treble for radio and CD independantly.

Funnily enough, i've always found radio to be bassier than CD's!! The new HU in my Skyline is the same... just like my last car. Weird!

I think you will find its a bit like mp3, just more so. Mp3 compresses the data you cant hear, or your stereo cant produce. Radio is the same, just they keep going in to what you can here.

Technically mp3 still isnt as good as a cd, but it all comes down to the orginal recording anyway, and how good the system is at reproducing the sound.

JTS25T: Dunno man... my new Kenwood does it, and my old Kenwood in my Commodore did it. Kinda handy, cause FM radio has always been more bassier to me. (not as bad as AM radio though)

If FM radio is Frequency-Modulated, and high-pitch is in the upper range, and bass is in the lower... maybe the upper is being cut out a bit by the radio stations?

Also listening to music on air is free, and hence music quailty is also low!! Wont be your typical 128kbs..

Also since the waves travel further, the frequencies may also decrease in quailty.. not 2 sure on that..

  • 4 weeks later...

something that i remember from uni in regards to wireless transmission.

sound (music) is a whole spectrum of frequencies. bass is the lower range frequencies, treble is high.

Frequency modulation (or AM for that matter) allows transmission of this spectrum of frequencies over a single frequency (ie what you tune your radio to).

However to transmit the whole spectrum requires infinite power (not possible) so a compromise takes place. Hence why FM doesn't sound as good as CD.

  • 2 weeks later...

radio is up to 22khz range, whereas CD is 44khz.. which allows much more frequencies to be accurately transmitted in the spectrum. Usually that would mean that its the higher frequencies that you'd lose, so I guess there must be other explanations why you lose bass frequency... probably to do with bass requiring more power to send the lower wavelengths long distances??

Radio plays crap usually repeditive music anyhow :mellow:

They were talking about digital radio which would improve the quality, but they've been talking about that for 10 years and not much has advanced in that area.

I think some head units will try to recreate some of the bass lost in radio transmissions, which is why some headunits make the radio bassier than others... My alpine is a lot bassier on the radio than a cd, but so much so that it sounds like crap.

I also know, that all the Brisbane radio stations are shit too... especially the new morning crew on all B105, Triple M and Nova... All of them like to share with you every morning how ignorant they are and how cool it is to be a dumbshit...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...