Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Has anyone used Endless Brake Pads?

What do you think?

Can anyone (that has used them) compare Endless to Bendix Advance, Freodo DS2500 or RB74s

I've been looking at a few different options

Endless SSM, SSS or SSY

For 90% street use, I'm thinking that the Endless SSS should do the job.

approx $400 - $450 for both Front and Rear (delivered)

any comments would be appreciated :(

PEAR

Edited by pear
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95706-endless-brake-pad-have-you-used-them/
Share on other sites

the Super Sports S are a pretty good street/mild track pad. For 90% street though i would go to the one milder than that, and use some dedicated track pads when need be. the S are nowhere near as dusty as bendix or RB74s and don't squeel much either. quite a good all round pad.

Hey mate, im running super steet S's on front and 8500N's on the rear by endless. Sweet as, they are a hard compound brake pad and may squeel a little when braking, but the performance is quite amazing (i just gota adjust my handbrake) a similar set-up like mine will be fine for track and street

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the feedback – very helpful!!

The negun tip could save me $50 on what I was quoted, very happy, thanks Robocop! :(

more questions…

I’m still thinking about the SSS - every 2nd /3rd weekend I’m driving in the hills - from Bryon Bay to Montville. It’s not anywhere near ‘track’ use, but would prefer to be a little over the top that under the mark…

I’ve suffered brake fade/loss when driving in Europe – I don’t want to go there again!

Ok, what’s the deal with different pads Front and back?

Nathan, I didn’t see the 8500N’s listed, are they a step up from SSS?

I friend of mine commented that R34 GTT has ok brakes on the front and are a little small at the rear. Is this where better rear pads play a part?

Lastly, SSY and SSS, how are they on rotors?

Any info, comments on this would be great.

Thanks again

PEAR

Edited by pear

ok, after a bit more searching 8500N’s look like they are more of a street pad than the SSY

question still stands on why some guys go for different pads front and rear?

any more comments on a supplier would be good, otherwise negun is the go!

Thanks

PEAR

Edited by pear

I have used endless na-m (old range) which were the street spec pads, probably similar to the ssy pads.

Im not sure what the other pads i have on now are, but the na-m's were the best pads i have felt in any skyline i have driven, they bite well when cold and even better when hot, although i cant tell you how they will perform on the track as i only used them on the road. No squeeling either.

I would not hesitate in getting another set of endless pads.

Hey,

I have something called "Euro-X" on the front and NA-M pads on the rear, these pads are great, squeal a bit when cold but get some temp into them (1-2 hard stops from 80-100 kmh) and DAMN do they bite hard. The guys at Centrax in Brisbane reckoned this is about as far as you'd go for pads that spend the majority of time on the street.

Not too dusty either. Combined with a good disc machine these made a significant difference to the braking on my car. I'll be strongly considering getting more of these when replacement time comes.

Ok, what’s the deal with different pads Front and back?

Nathan, I didn’t see the 8500N’s listed, are they a step up from SSS?

I friend of mine commented that R34 GTT has ok brakes on the front and are a little small at the rear. Is this where better rear pads play a part?

Using different ones, coz im building my car for drift, and rather then needing full grip rear i chose to go down one step to the 8500's coz its only handbrake, and they dont fade too much no matter how much i lock it up. And the SSS's at the front give me full braking protection and dont fade till over 500 degree's celcius.

hehe in my case there's nothing fancy, it was just a practical issue - the EuroX and NA-M's were very similar overall in temp range, friction coefficient etc but they didn't have EuroX pads that fitted the rear calipers in stock.

the only diff was the EuroX were a little quieter and lower in dust.

In case you guys have not found this website check it out for the Endless range http://www.centraxauto.com.au/Endless/brake-pads.htm

I have not used Endless pads but I am interested in seeing your responses because I am looking at something for my S13 Silvia. At the moment people seem to be choosing Bendix Ultimates, RB74s and some Endless VN8500 and NA-Y or SSY for street use and maybe some track.

thanks for the input so far :)

I've been using Endless Pads VN8500 with no dramas. They definately grip well and not much dust (for a pad that is supposed to produce a bit).

Centrax would be the supplier of choice (I use them for all my mechanical work anyway).

  • 4 weeks later...

Guys,

Thanks for your comments! Very much appreciated!!

I went for the SSY in the end. I had to wait about 3 weeks for delivery, but they have finally arrived.

A big that’s to Robocop for the Nengun tip – I got BOTH front and rear for $209 plus delivery.

Choyda, the guys at Centrax wanted too much $$ - approx $230 front and another $230 for rear. I’m sure they do a great job / provide good service, but the price difference was way too much.

Hopefully getting the rotors machined later this week (for a carton of VB).

Can’t wait to get the pads on.

Thanks again,

PEAR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...