Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just tossing up between 2 ECU's

the Haltec and the D-Jetro Power FC.

I really want to rid myself from the AFM's as mine seem to always be playing up.

R32 GTR.

Full rebuild

eventually will be single turbo

eventually will have 500-600HP

Im not overly concerned with cold starts.

Haltec = $2350

D-Jetro = ~$1200 + map sensor ($350) + harness and nipples (~$200)

i will also need to buy the boost controll kit eventually for the pfc ($350)

I am leaning towards the Haltec.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96740-what-ecu-for-this-gtr/
Share on other sites

Or, 3rd option... you could get a normal PFC under $1100

Get two new Nismo AFM's and it'll cost you the same :O

You wont have any problems of extra tuning the haltech will require plus the total re-wiring thats required

AFM's generally play up once they get old, as yours would be.

You'll thank yourself for keeping the AFM IMO. (before ya ask why, searchie button hehehe)

oh yeah, the install and tune for Haltec will be ~$600

i will keep that in mind R31Nismoid.

the AFM's i have got now i bought from someone here.... apparently they were from a 33GTR with 40,000kms.

one AFM is reading 1.5 volts the other is .4 volts...

does this mean one is on its way out? is that normal? the reading was done by a Heltec distributer so they may have just wanted to sell me a new ECU :O

Clean the AFM's and then check the voltage, I use spray on brake cleaner, no residue. There is simply no better way of measuring the airflow into an engine than an AFM. Using a MAP sensor driven ECU means it is guessing the airflow. Do a search if you want more info, this is an often discussed subject.

:O cheers :D

agreed, search button as to the benefits of an AFM are well covered.

Dru - thats why i always get new parts. Might cost a tad more at times (like $100/$150 difference for AFM) but in terms of the hassle and time saved, its well worth it.

Give em a clean as above, and see what comes of it. Also check inside the connectors etc to make sure of good contact

hey,

i cleaned the AFM and connections with electrical contact cleaner... but the car still ran like a dog with 1 leg.. very bad under load, cant go up hills etc.

where could i get the Nismo AFMs from?

also how do they compare to Z32? (i think the answer to that will be "search" :O )

does the Power FC lack any options that the Haltec can offer? and vise versa

the car will also be a daily driver

Apexi for me

D-Jetro has become popular in Wa but it still a big fan of the pfc and i wouldn't go the nismo afms because i believe there the same std size Yes?(62mm) the rb20/25 or z32 are 80mm and give much less restriction to air flow than the std size afm (and personaly i descreen mine) everyone loves putting large exhaust system on to get rid of the gas but what goes out must first get in and in only under a vacuvm(inlet of the turbo).Twin 3" dumps are common so i also run twin 3" intake piping from the 80mm afms, which lets the turbos breath easily.

pete

ps APEXI pfc best plug and play on the market

while the haltec may offer some more features

it doesnt make up for the extra cost of purchase , cost and incovenience of non plug and play and the inability to match the power fc's superior idle/aircond/cold start and wider range of tuners familiar with the product

you have answered your own question. if it's a daily driver then i think it would be a mistake not to go afms and PFC. nismo afms are basically the electronics of a Z32 maf in the body of a RB26 maf. you get the advantage being able to measure more airflow whislt being able to keep your current intake set-up and standard appearance.

where could i get the Nismo AFMs from?

also how do they compare to Z32? (i think the answer to that will be "search" tongue.gif )

I got mine from prefect run, but greenline have them too. As others have said they are pretty simalar resolution to the Z32. I got the nismo over the Z32 cause i wanted to keep the stockers airbox. If you have pod's you might aswell go Z32 as there the same price for new ones.

nismo_afm.jpg

Edited by sav man
If you really do want to ditch the AFM's, look into Autronic. They are an awesome computer and one of the best you can buy (reasonable price too)

I came across this ecu in the "top 5 gtr ECU's" thread..

i have been searching there site >> http://www.autronic.com/index.html

but cant seem to find a price list? for the SM4

yes i would prefer to ditch the AMS's.. the only daily driving i do would be cruising and the occasional trip to the shops... apart from that it would just be on the track. (i dont need a car during the week)

sav man: i would go the Z32 AFM's then as i have air pods.

IMACUL8: i wish

Edited by druzilla32

Problem with ditching the AFM's on a car with mutilple throttle bodies is the poor vacumm quality with low throttle transitions usually between 0-5% TPS. This is why I would use an Autronic as you can tune TPS based to a certain point and thn tune speed density afterwards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...