Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, is anyone here a fan of low cars

I just lowered the line and goddamn that thing is low now.

Didnt really know what to expect, just jacked it up and changed the springs. dropped it again and hmmm LOWRYDA!!

donna have to get those as plates. lol or BOUNCIN cos thazz the other thing it does now.

Anyways just looking for any opinions on lowness. anyone else got a lowered line but not with coilovers (coilovers hmpff why do it properly when you can just dump it) and would like to share with me their driving experiences in terms of handling etc.

And please no links to the whiteline website. lol

latas

RiaZ

Hey Adrian I will try to call you about the "view the dump & front pipe session" at EVO R

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine has Apexi coilovers which where far too low when I bought it. It used to scrape the tyres in the arches, and scrape exhaust bits on dips in the road. I lifted it 25mm, and it still below legal, but because I have stock body it rarely scrapes now. Except in my own driveway which has a big slope and a lump at the top. That 25mm didn't make a huge difference in handling, and its still set firm, but then I don't know how a stocker handles.

Might want to have the wheel camber checked, or make friends with tyre retailers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-147900
Share on other sites

I have KYB Coilovers lowered below legal limit.. I must have the hardest suspension on earth!!

I have stock Type-M front bar, and it scrapes on just about everything. the middle of the exhaust scrapes on speed humps at most shopping centres. the rear muffler (it's angled) is FAR too low to reverse upto a kerb efficiently.. bah!

but all in all, the car handles like a dream.... looks dam schmick. So i'm happy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-148028
Share on other sites

When you lower em too low , and my front is right on that limit, then the front lower control arms actually invert and hang lower at the inner pivot than the outer mount on the hub.

This creates a rocking effect on patchy road surfaces and also most shock bodies have no upward travel left which means on reasonable bumps the stops are getting hammered.

Hence this is why you get the occassional crash over a bump.

Having said that , a line lowered till the sills on the floor is a sweet look.

As b2barker said , if lowered the camber goes to neg and on the rear it is hard to get it off as there is insufficient

adjustment.Inside tyre wear then becomes an issue.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-148073
Share on other sites

100mm clearance off the ground is the legal limit,

but from the wheel centre to the mid of the wheel arch needs to be lime 320mm in the front and 330mm in the back.

mine is not near there.

hang on.....

just measured it roughly

front is like 300mm and rear is like 285mm

hehe

looks slammed. if i could just get some 18's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-149828
Share on other sites

Cant roll a coke under mine.

My tyres hit wheels arches too - but as for making friend friends with tyre retailers i havent had a prob with tyres they have been 90% tread since ive had it in Aug. I would be more grovelling to the likes of pedders! The rubber bit that stops it hitting the wheel arch on mine has warn away and the shockies have packed up (i think that was the basic explanation) so they wanted to put new springs in it which will lift my front end a little but the ansewer to that was NO! so now i gotta get special shockies - i think - suspension isnt really my area of expertise i kinda say its making my CD player skip fix it but i dont want it any higher - like the difficult female i am. Oh and be prepared for lots of scrapes thats why i didnt want to take on mandurah in the next run because that place just is shocking for low cars i cant even get on grannys driveway cos the curb is too high.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-151648
Share on other sites

reading back about what GTRken said about the stops getting hammered and the bouncy castle effect thats whats happened to mine - i think the stops are pretty much non existant now. But theres apparently a solution without making it any higher that will last for ages and if it doesnt my mechanic will be seeing what the inside of my boot is like!! Just dont play the CD player on bumpy roads and advoid country driving because you'll be itching to get out of it by the end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-151655
Share on other sites

Nizmo , what type of shocks are on the car.

If they are the usual Tein , Hks etc , they are designed for smooth racetrack style roads.

They have HUGE spring rates and the shock valving is usually so stiff it doesn't need the springs.

A few of us go to Wilkinson Suspension in Bayswater. He sells quality gear ( Bilstein, Koni , whiteline , superpro etc ) and can get you good shocks and springs that actually go up and down.

Cheers

( no I'm not on commission )

Ken

ps luv your signature hehe ...close the door.:lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-151694
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Pva_Glue

also a condition known as "TItt Giggler" :P

It's been also reported to male genders... due to Man Boob effect

cheers

Joe

I think you mean Jiggler , joe .

Or do you mean joe Diggler ??

Cheers

( cracks me up , bwahaha )

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-151698
Share on other sites

all sounds very expensive!! im the kinda person that likes to take my car to one place and have them handle it - too many cooks spoil the broth as i found out with my Z31. Ive been told estimate $500 to have it fixed - should last as long as i have car - sounds decent to me. I would rather spend the money on something that actually makes it go faster!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-151861
Share on other sites

$500 to repair the shocks, supply new springs and bump rubbers sounds pretty cheap.

I think Wilko does Koni and king springs for about $1100-1200 but at least you know they will work.

Trust me , decent suspension will make your car go faster , around corners and even on the ( heaven forbid ) dragstrip.

Cheers

(ndf )

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-151904
Share on other sites

Oh and in reply to taking it to one place, nobody is an expert on everything ( not even phptf ) but if you know which specialists to take it to a better result will occur.

For instance I wouldn't take my car to Wilkinsons to get tuned but visavis I wouldn't take it to Exhaust dynamics for a w/alignment.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-151908
Share on other sites

Hey Ken,

I resemble that remark. I always take my car to the best man/woman for the job. I too have super stiff suspension, and will be taking it to Wilkinson Suspension to let them have a look at it and recommend a handling package for racing.

Nizmo,

$500 will not get you very far when it comes to good suspension, I would shop around and check out what each are offering first.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-152028
Share on other sites

your right joe , that is an odd question.

Funny thing is , coming from you , it sounds perfectly normal:D

Answer is no, you would have to take the springs out and replace them with solid blocks and fill the tyres full of concrete cos they have a cushioning effect as well.

Cheers

( we get some weird ones )

Ken:lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/#findComment-152325
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...