Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey just a quick tip that would save you a heap of time, instead of masking up the rotor and stuff, just apply a thin layer of grease, heaps quicker, let everthing dry well, rip a can of degreser out and a hose and your done.

i didnt bother with the top coat, the finish of the anodized paint was enough for me

as for the cracking/peeling on the track - not sure on that, they say its rated up at 500 F (approx 260 C) intermittently, so how hot do your brakes get???

A friend of mine welded his wheel nuts to the wheel studs :) They get hot.

If your pushing it for a few laps hard, id say youd breach 260 pretty quickly.

The rotors i have on my R33 have a 600 degree indicator on them.. what does that tell you lol.

If your not going to track the car then normal enamel or acrylic paint will do the job. normal automotive paint is heat resistance up to a certain temperature. i know for a fact because i painted my previous calipers with two dollar store paint and lasted. just make you use lots of clear for protection. let it cure properly.

  • 2 months later...

I'm gonna give this a go. Abit of a bump yes but something like this will always be looked for. Great writeup. Ill be doing this on my R33 GTST fronts first then rears. Going to use Duplicolor metalcast orange/yellow(which ever I can find). Will post up how it goes. I cbf taking the calipers off the car. I only just done the brake lines and used some good fluid in there so ill just unbolt them and dangle them off the car.

  • 3 months later...

I'm sure it been mentioned but does the clear come in a heat resistant too?

The tins I've looked at are just a colour heat resistant to 'x' amount of degrees but I haven't come across any clear yet. I'll keep looking. I'll do mine in a few weeks, just the standard black with white Nissan.

3M heat proof spray paint is rated to 650c and comes in clear also. can get from supercheap.

I done mine in the aluminium colour then clear. Done about 6 months ago and looks as good as when first done. Ill take pics if you want.

3M heat proof spray paint is rated to 650c and comes in clear also. can get from supercheap.

I done mine in the aluminium colour then clear. Done about 6 months ago and looks as good as when first done. Ill take pics if you want.

Yo GoHard! Cheers for that!! I have a grey 32 GTR, and after seeing the pics of the dude sparaying his brembos silver I was thinking about doing the same. But I also really like the black with white Nissan... To many options!!

I hear ya.

I ended up going with the silver because my car is silver. don't regret it.

To save pissing around with masking/painting the brembo, you can get off ebay for sfa some high temp brembo vinyls. not sure if they hold up but its worth 5-10 bucks?

  • 1 month later...

Ive always used normal cheap spray paint for some reason heat hasn't affected em. Tho I don't do track or anything. My last car I painted em Baby blue/green and printed some Project Mu decals, glued them on lol looked sick! Peps at the car show thought they were real haha this was a Evo with bremebo brakes tho btw. Gotta love painted brakes so simple yet so affective.

  • 9 months later...

Looks sweet, well done.

Have to get around to doing this some day and maybe do the ugly rust bits of the discs too.

Now you just need to change you sig pic so the calipers are on the correct side. ;)

Edited by Not a Pulsar

Thanks, definately worth the effort (not much effort actually, just a lot of waiting haha)

Is it bad to paint the rusty bits on the disc, since it's not the actual disc itself? I do want to get rid of the rust somehow, but not sure how to go about it.

Would like to make it black, match the rest of the black and gold theme i got lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...