Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Driveline Strenght

druzilla32

By druzilla32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

druzilla32 Mentor

druzilla32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Theres no defined point - Gearbox especially

It will depend on how its been driven, condition/age, and power delivery.

well i notice you have a lot of power. have you had to upgrade/ replace any driveline parts?

its regarding a street gtr with approx 600-650hp at the fly

occasionally seeing the strip and track

Edited by druzilla32
Leewah Veteran

Leewah

Posted
Posted

604awkw and I'm still using stock diffs.

Gearbox is a matter of how you drive it like everyone else has said. 3rd will be the first to go once you get decent power but I managed to get 446rwkw in mine before I swapped to the OS gearset.

Stripped the stock gearbox down and it was still in perfect condition.

Morgs Veteran

Morgs

Posted
Posted

I broke a gearbox ~5 days after having my car back on road with a base tune (440rwhp) - but the box was in fairly poor condition to start.

I'd suggest if you're at the point of being serious about track/strip performance you'd want an aftermarket gearset, straight cut or otherwise.

Diffs have been ok so far as with shafts, but I don't exactly give it a hard time

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

you can blow one with stock power if you work at it. some nice flat shifting into second, and into 4th would be a good way to ensure that the synchros wear out in a matter of days, which will then lead to some nice fractured gears as you bang it into 4th and let out the clutch at 7000 odd rpm. if you treat it more nicely (ie no flat shifting) and use it the way a synchro box is meant to be used then it will be fine for a long time.

R32-GTS Mentor

R32-GTS

Posted
Posted (edited)

Most twin and tripple plate clutches for gtr's are solid centre. I managed to get a sprung centre nismo twin plate for mine but have still broken 2 gearboxes. 1st box blew third gear and the second box broke second gear under acceleration in gear. This was with 520rwhp on first box and 608rwhp on the second box. New box has 627rwhp to cope with and i dont think its gonna last very long, Maybe a couple weeks. Time for OS Gearset.

Edited by R32-GTS
ebola Proficient

ebola

Posted
Posted (edited)
Anyone know how much weaker the R32 GTS4 gearbox and Diffs are, what power can a GTS4 handle?

I have *heard* 300kw at the wheels. As has been said though, its how you treat it.

the gts4 has different ratios to a gtr, including a different final drive. Well, according to the specs anyway.

EDIT:: oops, wrong specs

EDIT2: As has been pointed out below, r32 gts-4 is different. Perhaps I should widen my perspective to include other models... Perhaps not.

Edited by ebola
Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

GTS-4 and GTR gearboxes are identical, except that the R32 GTS-4's (with the RB20DET) used different ratios. The R33 boxes and diffs are identical ratios.

But driveline strength also must include the clutch and half shafts. The GTS-4 is considerably less than the GTR in both clutch capacity and rear half shaft diameter. It also uses four stud wheels.

If you get an R33 GTS-4 and put a GTR clutch in it, and upgrade the wheel hubs and half shafts, it will be identical to a GTR in both strength and ratios.

But an R32 GTS-4 will have different ratios, but could be made just as strong with the same clutch and driveshaft changes.

sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
Posted
GTS-4 and GTR gearboxes are identical, except that the R32 GTS-4's (with the RB20DET) used different ratios. The R33 boxes and diffs are identical ratios.

But driveline strength also must include the clutch and half shafts. The GTS-4 is considerably less than the GTR in both clutch capacity and rear half shaft diameter. It also uses four stud wheels.

If you get an R33 GTS-4 and put a GTR clutch in it, and upgrade the wheel hubs and half shafts, it will be identical to a GTR in both strength and ratios.

But an R32 GTS-4 will have different ratios, but could be made just as strong with the same clutch and driveshaft changes.

Have tou had the GTR and GTS4 boxes in pieces? Are the gear and sahft sizes the same ( apart from ratio).

Are you sure all R32 GTS4 turbos came with 4 stud wheels??

Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sky30, I have not personally compared the two gearboxes side by side fully dismantled, but know someone that has. There is one bearing with a different Nissan part number, not sure which, but both bearings are physically interchangeable and probably make no real practical difference. It is the sort of production change that car makers sometimes make during a production run.

The 4WD gearboxes are essentially otherwise identical in all respects, and used in both GTR and GTS-4. Gears, casing, shafts, selectors, seals, transfer case, everything are absolutely identical.

Diffs are the same too. R160 in the front and R200 in the rear all are 4.11 ratio except the R32 which has 4.32 diffs. The rear LSD can be viscous, multi-plate, or electronic, depending on what was ordered. Some GTS-4s even have the electronic diff usually only seen in the V spec GTR, though that is extremely rare.

The R34 GTR with the six speed Getrag has different gear ratios and diff ratios again, (3.54, I think ?). The front diff is an R180.

Edited by Warpspeed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...