Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The don't 'gain kw' at all.

What they do is massively reduce inertia, allowing for faster accelleration.

Accellerating faster without extra power is GOLD.

NO extra wear

NO extra heat

NO loss of economy

NO spending money on upgrading parts to cope with more power.

The carbon tail shafts are very strong too.

There is a guy Keith Cowie who I think made mention of getting them made up fairly cheaply for his R32GTR, if your around Keith please feel free to drop the name of the place :D

Considering the dollars people end up spending on modifications to acheive the same accelleration advantage they may well be reasonably priced considering the ongoing savings you get on the advantages listed above.

Keith was apparently getting much keener prices than nismo and mines stuff.

ok, i saw a mention of one on a top secret car, but it seems they may have been using the trust one. it's around 350 000yen for a 32 GTR. not sure if they make GTST versions.

pic:

post-3621-1133928866.jpg

arent you just reducing rotating mass with these things ?

you would get the same effect with

-lighter wheels

-lightened flywheel

reducing rotating mass too much has drivability downsides though, car will be jerky and lose momentum very quickly - i think you would be able to cross that line (between being driveable on the street and not being driveable, or desirable) with just lowering of your flywheels mass

Edited by mokompri

It's not the same as lightening the flywheel. The flywheel gives the engine end of the drive train additional momentum, which assists with maintaining revs (helps you to not stall) when you let the clutch out. This improves driveability. There are some other benefits during gear changes.

A lighter driveshaft (or lighter wheels) will not have this effect on driveablility, as they are on the other side of the clutch. There is no downside - beside the cost. :rolleyes:

in relation to GTR's ive heard they make a noticeable difference in acceleration. Id have to feel it for myself tho before i go spending $4000+ on one! the stock one is ~15kg and the carbon one is half that. So i would agree, not exactly a bang for buck mod! Unless however you are at the stage where youve already exausted the most power-liberating bang for buck mods and want to go the next step. And if all your doing is eating XR8's, i highly doubt that is the case with your GTS xr8eater :rolleyes:

edit: the gtr ones im talking about are the trust ones as already mentioned, available from greenline, however they dont seem to have them listed for GTS.

Edited by SLY33
It's not the same as lightening the flywheel.  The flywheel gives the engine end of the drive train additional momentum, which assists with maintaining revs (helps you to not stall) when you let the clutch out.  This improves driveability.  There are some other benefits during gear changes. 

A lighter driveshaft (or lighter wheels) will not have this effect on driveablility, as they are on the other side of the clutch.  There is no downside - beside the cost.  :rolleyes:

ahh yes of course you are right ! while engaged in gear though the effect would be the same, but yeah the tailshaft wouldnt have the downsides of a lightened flywheel on gear change

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...