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i haven't tried to take the sump off yet. i was going to put them in when i replace the clutch, but after talking to a mate today he reckons sump baffle fitting requires engine removal.

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i haven't tried to take the sump off yet. i was going to put them in when i replace the clutch, but after talking to a mate today he reckons sump baffle fitting requires engine removal.

your mate is 100% correct

Hey Richard,

Sorry to but in !

You promised me a sticker and I still havn"t got it!

Merry Christmas!

MIB :D

i haven't tried to take the sump off yet. i was going to put them in when i replace the clutch, but after talking to a mate today he reckons sump baffle fitting requires engine removal.

hehe, always me me me with you!! :blink:

I'm sure duncan has one he can give you if you see him first. I'll be away (in japan) for most of jan but i'll certainly bring one with me to the first state champs round.

merry christmas mate.

Richard

one of the most important things you should do is put in an EXTRA 1.5 LITRES of oil.

i tested this on the track with a mechanicl oil pressure guage.

on the street with standard evrything and the oil on the high mark it surges its head of by just acelerating flat out in first and abit of second!!!!

with an extra 1.5 litres it seems to be ok.(basicly filled up to just over the hump on the bottom of the dipstick.

yes motor out on a stand to do a sumpbaffel.

could be done but by the time you spend cleaning all of the threebond out of the sump and the rest,you could of pulled the motor out.

but then there is the question of upgrading the oil pump at the same time?

id advise to do both :lol:

this car kicked ass so much so at bathuarst, its now a v8 only race. so much for the competition ,a 2 horse race how boring, keep practicing

Precisely.  The explanation came from the original R32 GT-R test drives done by both Wheels & by Car magazine.  The description in Wheels is as follows:

"Nissan's sophisticated Super HICAS system works in two distinct steps; initially in reverse phase (with the rear wheels turning through a small arc in the opposite direction to the front) before moving to the parallel phase."

Car was a bitmore effusive:

"The rear wheels counter-steer to help the Skyline turn into the corner, and then steer in the same direction as the fronts, to help stability.... At high speed, though, the maximum movement is approximately 0.3 degrees"

Unfortunately neither nominate a speed at which the system works/stops working.  From what I understand it changes phases, ie from counter steer to same phase when you get on the accelerator.

The reason that some people say it makes the car's handling more unpredicatble is that when you turn the car into a corner you need to differentiate between the HICAS working and the back end losing grip & starting to slide.  Sometimes that is not so easy.  Disabling the HICAS means when you feel the back end getting loose you are running out of grip.  Having said that everything it does after turn in, in my humble opinion, is all good.

Edited by nobby

with an extra 1.5 litres it seems to be ok.(basicly filled up to just over the hump on the bottom of the dipstick.

been telling people this for the last 5 years ... will they ever listen

nope they just keep saying i cant come out to the track cause i dont have sump baffels

classic case of SBS = sump baffel syndrom

I ran a few track days without the baffles, just overfilling a bit. It seemed to be ok, but I did get a lot of oil pissing out the dipstick and a lot of blow by through the breather pipes. I now have the Trust sump extension/with baffle and extended pickup, with an N1 oil pump and Trust 16 row oil cooler and relocation kit. Man does it take some oil now!! I over filled the 1st time at the track with this and had the same messy oil probem and since have only filled to the high mark with no messy oil dramas. Do the rest of you overfillers have the same problem? I tried fixing it by putting an extra o-ring on the dipstick which helped a little but it still forced some out. I also have since fitted a Nismo air/oil separator to keep to oil out of the intake.

I ran a few track days without the baffles, just overfilling a bit.  It seemed to be ok, but I did get a lot of oil pissing out the dipstick and a lot of blow by through the breather pipes.  I now have the Trust sump extension/with baffle and extended pickup, with an N1 oil pump and Trust 16 row oil cooler and relocation kit.  Man does it take some oil now!!  I over filled the 1st time at the track with this and had the same messy oil probem and since have only filled to the high mark with no messy oil dramas.  Do the rest of you overfillers have the same problem?  I tried fixing it by putting an extra o-ring on the dipstick which helped a little but it still forced some out.  I also have since fitted a Nismo air/oil separator to keep to oil out of the intake.

Hey Jason, can you post up a picture of your oil/air separator. I have seen some GT-R fill their catch cans within a few laps. It is because some people install a high volume oil pump without matching it to an oil restrictor to reduce the volume of oil pumped into the head. What then happens is that with some lateral gees & high revs the cam covers get filled with oil & it goes from there into the catch can.

The setups for some track GT-Rs are quite particular as to how they plug into the breathers on the cam covers. The White's R34 that they used in Targa Tassie is a good example. I think I may have a photo somewhere of the engine bay.

As for the overfillers (Guilty as charged) I don't have any problems with oil going places it shouldn't.

Yeah, I have a few mates fill up their catch cans, usually takes about 10-12 laps for them. The Nismo item is the one out of the Z-tune catalogue, same item for 33 and 34. It has a little baffle between the inlet hose (bottom) and the outlet (to intake) or top hose. The oil return goes straight out the bottom of the can and joins the oil return line for the rear turbo. The 90 bend out of the turbo gets replaced with a new T piece. The only problem encountered was the new T piece needed a spacer made up as it wasn't long enough to clear the housing on the turbo. I thought buying nismo would have mean't perfect fitment???? I guess not. . . .

The thing I do like about it though is it looks very factory and I don't have big long breather pipes going right across the engine bay. For those who like to look as stock as possible :)

post-1841-1135211249.jpg

Yeah, I have a few mates fill up their catch cans, usually takes about 10-12 laps for them.  The Nismo item is the one out of the Z-tune catalogue, same item for 33 and 34.  It has a little baffle between the inlet hose (bottom) and the outlet (to intake) or top hose.  The oil return goes straight out the bottom of the can and joins the oil return line for the rear turbo.  The 90 bend out of the turbo gets replaced with a new T piece.  The only problem encountered was the new T piece needed a spacer made up as it wasn't long enough to clear the housing on the  turbo.  I thought buying nismo would have mean't perfect fitment????  I guess not. . . .

The thing I do like about it though is it looks very factory and I don't have big long breather pipes going right across the engine bay.  For those who like to look as stock as possible  :)

That is a neat installation. I have seen some really horrible ones with hoses trailing all over the engine bay & dodgy holes punched into the top of the catch can to allow it to breath. Also the constabulary don't much like external breathers on the things...

Can I ask where from & how much?

That practically looks factory!

it would want to lol. from memory the nismo catch tanks are about 40 000 yen retail. very nice though.

Yeah, I am always copping heaps about the cost, but I am the one who is laughing when between sprint sessions I am kicking back drinking a coke and they are stuffing around emptying there catch cans. :)

Got it from Nengun

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/314

I was going to go an ARC one (or copy) but I am not a big fan on the one or two breather pipes going the full ength of the engine bay even though that seems to be the most popular. It just looks untidy IMHO.

The oil return goes straight out the bottom of the can and joins the oil return line for the rear turbo.

That would worry me. When the engines gets excessive blowby it will pressurise the oil return from the turbo. This could mean low (or even zero) oil flow to the rear turbo. Even a short, instaneous excess of blow by (eg; missed gear change) could be enough to seize the shaft due to the lack of oil.

That's why we always have separate oil return to the sump.

:P cheers :D

That would worry me.  When the engines gets excessive blowby it will pressurise the oil return from the turbo.  This could mean low (or even zero) oil flow to the rear turbo. Even a short, instaneous excess of blow by (eg; missed gear change) could be enough to seize the shaft due to the lack of oil.

That's why we always have separate oil return to the sump.

:P cheers :D

Gary, I am missing some understanding somewhere (ok, most places, but I digress). Doesn't the oil return from the turbos feed into the sump in any case? I thought that it wouldn't matter much where the return line from the catch can goes as pressure will be present in the sump from blow by anyway. But as I said, maybe I am missing something....

Judging by the amount of oil that sprayed out when I couldn't get the T-peice to seal off, I can't imagine a little oil dribbling down from can could effect it much at all. If it behaves anything like a stormwater line, then the oil from the can would just back up until pressure from the turbo return subsided, not the other way around??? All it does it join into the oil return from the turbo which then goes straight into the sump. Can't see how it could have any effect on the oil going into the turbo. And wouldn't most (if not all) of the pressure be released as gas back into the intake, which would be an area of much lower pressure, leaving the oil to just dribble down the oil return. That is how I thought it would all work anyway.

  • 6 months later...
I ran a few track days without the baffles, just overfilling a bit. It seemed to be ok, but I did get a lot of oil pissing out the dipstick and a lot of blow by through the breather pipes. I now have the Trust sump extension/with baffle and extended pickup, with an N1 oil pump and Trust 16 row oil cooler and relocation kit. Man does it take some oil now!! I over filled the 1st time at the track with this and had the same messy oil probem and since have only filled to the high mark with no messy oil dramas. Do the rest of you overfillers have the same problem? I tried fixing it by putting an extra o-ring on the dipstick which helped a little but it still forced some out. I also have since fitted a Nismo air/oil separator to keep to oil out of the intake.

I am having big blow by problems on the track also. None through the dipstick, just through the breathers. I fill the ARC catch can in 4 laps. :(

My oil pump is stock...I think??? I never replaced it. So I am a bit weiry to add an extra 1 lt of oil.

Will the trust sump extension kit with baffle and pick up reduce my blow by?

Has anyone used the Mines Rocket Cover Baffle Kit?

I need help I hate having this problem at the track, it gets VERY messy :wave:

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