Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well I'm with you r33 racer I don't know why they haven't had much trouble either. Been plenty of oil surge and bearing problems in nsw.

Anyway we've had to put standard sumps with internal baffles on for targa instead of the extended ones we normally run, and at Eastern Creek yesterday I was getting surge in 10/11/12, enough for pressure to drop from 6 to 4 even with overfilled oil on the expensive new oil pressure gauge. Standard one didn't show any variance.

But anyway.....since putting a big sump on a gtr is an engine out job, I would suggest just throw on a big oil cooler, head out and enjoy yourself and start saving for the rebuild.

When it blows - head over to Syndeykid's oil control thread and do all that stuff while it is out - it is the result of years of development and only costs a few extra $$$ when the engine is already apart.

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well I'm with you r33 racer I don't know why they haven't had much trouble either. Been plenty of oil surge and bearing problems in nsw.

Anyway we've had to put standard sumps with internal baffles on for targa instead of the extended ones we normally run, and at Eastern Creek yesterday I was getting surge in 10/11/12, enough for pressure to drop from 6 to 4 even with overfilled oil on the expensive new oil pressure gauge. Standard one didn't show any variance.

But anyway.....since putting a big sump on a gtr is an engine out job, I would suggest just throw on a big oil cooler, head out and enjoy yourself and start saving for the rebuild.

When it blows - head over to Syndeykid's oil control thread and do all that stuff while it is out - it is the result of years of development and only costs a few extra $$$ when the engine is already apart.

Corners 10/11/12, that's the right kink and double left onto the main straight isn't it?

If so, that's a hard acceleration run out of the hairpin in 2nd gear, change to 3rd and then to 4th. Flick right, brake hard and change down to 3rd. Hold 3rd through the long, double apex, left hander.

If anywhere is going cause oil surge it is that sequence, it has all the ingredients;

High rpm straight from a low gear (oil build up in the cylinder head)

Sustained acceleration G force (oil flowing rearwards in the sump, away from the pick up at the front)

Followed by heavy braking G force (oil flow away from the larger oil returns in the cylinder head)

Flick change of direction, then a sustained rpm and G force, double apex corner (oil flow across the sump)

That’s prime oil surge territory for a GTR sump.

:laugh: cheers :w00t:

Looks like us Mexicans are lucky when it comes to oil surge.. :laugh:

My car had a standard sump, although it did have a built motor from Racepace.

Even 350rwkws, RE55S tyres, decent brakes and suspension at the time, again with 1 litre overfill on a standard sump..

But I would recommend getting some sort of sump baffles if you were rebuilding your engine, cheap insurance.... :D

And Roy, stop grovelling on about your RWD 2 Litre and start putting out some numbers!!! :D

And Roy, stop grovelling on about your RWD 2 Litre and start putting out some numbers!!! :happy:

Numbers? Me or my car will never do any decent times. That’s why I have to talk it up so much, using quotes from my soon to be released book “Excuses for being inept and coming last”

Get at least a 19row oil cooler installed and add a litre of good oil.

In looking at oil coolers, some talk about a thermostat

from HKS

Thermostat controls Oil Temperature

As HKS oil cooler uses special core that is excellent for cooling purpose, this oil cooler has thermostat to prevent overcool (except for some models). This thermostat is very good at responding to temperature change and also acts as relief valve. When engine oil gets hotter than thermostat temperature setting (70C 3C), it will run into oil cooler core and be cooled down. When engine oil is cooler than above temperature, it will bypass the core and keep oil temperature in best condition. By acting thermostat as relief valve, HKS considered safety in an emergency.

Is this a significant benefit over a more basic version like the one offered by Just Jap?

http://www.justjap.com/parts_ncooling.htm

The JJR coolers look like pretty good value

I've just bought a Trust oil cooler. My mechanic said that the lines have to be adleast dash 8, prefurably dash 10. And from what I found, all the kits with dash 10+ lines cost heaps (Jap kits, and the big UAS kit). But i'm not sure what size lines the just jap kits have.

Edited by sav man

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...