What Should I Do To My Gtr

[Duncan]

well I'm with you r33 racer I don't know why they haven't had much trouble either. Been plenty of oil surge and bearing problems in nsw.

Anyway we've had to put standard sumps with internal baffles on for targa instead of the extended ones we normally run, and at Eastern Creek yesterday I was getting surge in 10/11/12, enough for pressure to drop from 6 to 4 even with overfilled oil on the expensive new oil pressure gauge. Standard one didn't show any variance.

But anyway.....since putting a big sump on a gtr is an engine out job, I would suggest just throw on a big oil cooler, head out and enjoy yourself and start saving for the rebuild.

When it blows - head over to Syndeykid's oil control thread and do all that stuff while it is out - it is the result of years of development and only costs a few extra $$$ when the engine is already apart.

[Sydneykid]

well I'm with you r33 racer I don't know why they haven't had much trouble either. Been plenty of oil surge and bearing problems in nsw.

Anyway we've had to put standard sumps with internal baffles on for targa instead of the extended ones we normally run, and at Eastern Creek yesterday I was getting surge in 10/11/12, enough for pressure to drop from 6 to 4 even with overfilled oil on the expensive new oil pressure gauge. Standard one didn't show any variance.

But anyway.....since putting a big sump on a gtr is an engine out job, I would suggest just throw on a big oil cooler, head out and enjoy yourself and start saving for the rebuild.

When it blows - head over to Syndeykid's oil control thread and do all that stuff while it is out - it is the result of years of development and only costs a few extra $$$ when the engine is already apart.

Corners 10/11/12, that's the right kink and double left onto the main straight isn't it?

If so, that's a hard acceleration run out of the hairpin in 2nd gear, change to 3rd and then to 4th. Flick right, brake hard and change down to 3rd. Hold 3rd through the long, double apex, left hander.

If anywhere is going cause oil surge it is that sequence, it has all the ingredients;

High rpm straight from a low gear (oil build up in the cylinder head)

Sustained acceleration G force (oil flowing rearwards in the sump, away from the pick up at the front)

Followed by heavy braking G force (oil flow away from the larger oil returns in the cylinder head)

Flick change of direction, then a sustained rpm and G force, double apex corner (oil flow across the sump)

That’s prime oil surge territory for a GTR sump.

cheers

[JAGR33]

Looks like us Mexicans are lucky when it comes to oil surge..

My car had a standard sump, although it did have a built motor from Racepace.

Even 350rwkws, RE55S tyres, decent brakes and suspension at the time, again with 1 litre overfill on a standard sump..

But I would recommend getting some sort of sump baffles if you were rebuilding your engine, cheap insurance....

And Roy, stop grovelling on about your RWD 2 Litre and start putting out some numbers!!!

[Roy]

And Roy, stop grovelling on about your RWD 2 Litre and start putting out some numbers!!!

Numbers? Me or my car will never do any decent times. That’s why I have to talk it up so much, using quotes from my soon to be released book “Excuses for being inept and coming last”

[tjandriesen]

Get at least a 19row oil cooler installed and add a litre of good oil.

In looking at oil coolers, some talk about a thermostat

from HKS

Thermostat controls Oil Temperature

As HKS oil cooler uses special core that is excellent for cooling purpose, this oil cooler has thermostat to prevent overcool (except for some models). This thermostat is very good at responding to temperature change and also acts as relief valve. When engine oil gets hotter than thermostat temperature setting (70C 3C), it will run into oil cooler core and be cooled down. When engine oil is cooler than above temperature, it will bypass the core and keep oil temperature in best condition. By acting thermostat as relief valve, HKS considered safety in an emergency.

Is this a significant benefit over a more basic version like the one offered by Just Jap?

http://www.justjap.com/parts_ncooling.htm

The JJR coolers look like pretty good value

[sav man]

I've just bought a Trust oil cooler. My mechanic said that the lines have to be adleast dash 8, prefurably dash 10. And from what I found, all the kits with dash 10+ lines cost heaps (Jap kits, and the big UAS kit). But i'm not sure what size lines the just jap kits have.

Edited February 28, 2007 by sav man