Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's been like 2 - 3 weeks now with no Ultimate. I've had to use some Synergy 98 & Optimax.

I want Ultimate again! Anybody who always uses ultimate but is having to use another fuel feeling the difference? speak up.

I think Optimax has been slower, 3rd gear 12psi just isn't pulling as quick I think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/
Share on other sites

I have been using vortex98 for the last few tanks and fuel economy is exactly the same.

The car does pull harder in 2nd and 3rd!!

I was suprised but my car runs better on vortex98 than ultimate or optimax.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1789549
Share on other sites

I'm of the understanding that most of the east coast has got an Ultimate shortage, with stocks to be restored at the end of December or early January.

I've been giving Synergy 8000 a go, I'm on my 3rd or 4th tank, I've noticed that power seems to be ever so slightly up, though my fuel economy has dropped slightly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1789694
Share on other sites

yep, there's been none in my town for at least 3 weeks (2 BP's, both out).

is really beggining to sh*t me cos i gotta drive 15 mins down the road to get optimax, or remember to fill up when im passing a shell/mobil out of town.

tried vortex and wasn't real keen, my knock levels went higher than i've ever seen them (although was a warmish day and car is tuned for ultimate).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1791718
Share on other sites

Well ive been running on synergy 8000 and recently swapped to optimax extreme.. and as far as im concerned it kills bp ultimate. I've got noticable power differences, specially after re-setting the ecu.

Though will good to be back to ultimate again, no ethanol or anything to worry about:)

Dayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1793330
Share on other sites

i think the "Ultimate" part in BP ultimate's name has a lot of people fooled lol

I think you'll find most workshops agree you can tune the hardest on Ultimate for any pump 98 fuel in Aust.

#1 Ultimate

#2 Synergy 8000

#3 Optimax

Some people say Synergy is a tad better than Ultimate but usually Ultimate is the prefered fuel for tuners trying to get the most outa it. I got the most power & lowest knock out of my car tuned on Ultimate.

Edited by geno8r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1793466
Share on other sites

how do you go about resetting the ECU?

Disconnect the battery, press the brake pedal to drain all the remaining power. Maybe leave it for a while then just hook the battery back up.

And I've been using Optimax since they went out of Ultimate and to be honest there is no difference at all imo. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1794029
Share on other sites

i ran my car on ultimate all the time and i found it pulled harder, had better economy and ran better, less lumpy in the idle. Using vortex and sh*t like that made my car crap, noticed it clutch kicking at pt.g last week.

GO BP ULTIMATE!!!!!!!! please come back to me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1794053
Share on other sites

Sounds like you guys over east are just getting what we went through over here about a month ago. The refinery had a problem so they couldn't produce anything but normal unleaded, so most stations were without 98 for a few weeks. Over east was still ok because they stockpile it I guess. Now that it's normal over here, that was probably the priority so all the fuel has probably came to us. :)

It won't be too long I imagine. Unless there are BP refinery's over east, I would think there would be which would mean I'm babbling shit.

You lot are complaining but over here Ultimate is the only 98 fuel we can get so it hurt us a LOT more!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1794884
Share on other sites

Ultimate is more expensive than extreme 100 here in QLD... On any given day BP is at least 2 cents dearer than shell at aspley and virgina....

So i stopped going to get fuel from BP along time ago...

I had the fc tuned on optimax and found extreme to knock a bit more but the extra 50km;s per tank has not rally made me a fan... ill stick to 98 plus i get 4c off a litre at shell also...

So thats a saving of about 3 bucks a tank... I also get a 600ml coke when i fill so thats a free coke in my books....

50-60 litres of fuel for the car and 600ml of coke for me....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98459-bp-ultimate/#findComment-1796224
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...