MANWHORE

No he doesn't. For r33 ecus, the map is held in the processor itself. The remap consists of unsoldering the stock processor, and resoldering on a new one which has been mapped. It's different to the 32 ecu which has the map on a separate chip. It can be done, and there's a guy in sydney who does them. It's not cheap though, because the only people who sell the chips are mines in japan. But in answer to your question, a chip if done properly can work very well. e.g. the guy in sydney essentially just increases the scope of the air that the ecu recognises. e.g. stock, above a certain level, the ecu is like shit, I don't know what's going on, so it goes into r+r By remapping it, such that that higher level of air is still reconigsed, r + r is gone. The afr won't be perfect 12, since it's not tuned for your specific mods, but it's still good, because the r + r is gone, speed limit is gone, and you can make fine adjustments via the safc/cas. I wouldn't just swap the ecu though. You'll have to dyno the car to make sure it's good. e.g. just in case if it was remapped for 700 cc injectors and a big turbo or somehting (probably won't be, but just to be sure).

Ben, you're a good bloke for trying to organise something for us SAU members. I didn't have any intention to insult you, or to challenge your commitment. I was just letting you know that they were still being sold. Best wishes, Chris

I just checked my chammy sitting on my desk. I bought 3 of them, because I only ever use them twice, then chuck them. Aion Plas Chamois Synththetic Made in Japan Sole importer Nichimen Australia Ltd Size 340 x 430 Bought 3 of them last week at supercheap auto. Woolies also used to sell them. They're good, but no different from the kenco one. $8 each from supercheap. Big and small sizes available. Big one is like $15

The Aion chammys are still available at supercheap auto for about $8 for the small one. There's nothing special about them. it's good, but no better than a kenco. In the comparison image, it's compared to a towel. Of course it'll dry better.

Kez, I trust that when they are sent out, that they'll be packaged very well in rigid packing? e.g. I'd prefer not have the guy at the post box try and fold it in half and stuff it into my post box, or have the postman chuck stuff on top of it and put creases and dents in it. Cheers matey

r31 sirty wan number one?

There'll always be a bit of fuel, because the rail is filled with fuel. It's no big deal. There is no way to prevent it.

I don't hate r32s at all. I am a fan of all skylines. It just so happens that I have both an r33 and an r32. It's just that r32 drivers always seem to love knocking r33s calling them boats, barges etc, so I merely respond. I never start calling r32s bad stuff, I merely respond.

Hey Tim It's Chris, I saw you at the workshop. I reckon it's personally up to you, because everyone has different priorities. Some prefer looks, some prefer go, some like both. Personally, I like both. If I had 2k ish to spend, I'd probably get a highflow metal cat, split front/dumps, then i'd get an electronic boost controller and increase the boost a bit. If I got more money, I'd then go for wheels and be looking at a turbo upgrade, pfc + tune. Keep in mind though, unless if you can get those kakimotos second hand, they'll cost you a fortune like all jap stuff. You'll need tyres too, so it'll probably cost you 3k+ unless if you can get them secondhand. There is so much you can do to the car, so it depends on how far you want to go and which path you want to take (performance or show).

I'm predicting ban very soon

Incorrect. The factory battery is a standard wet cell normal lead acid battery. It has a vent hole, which has a pipe which runs throguh the floor and vents.

More like the R stands for ricebox rustbucket

Ever been down to nissan to buy a genuine fuel filter lately? Even those aftermarket ones aren't much cheaper.

Taking out the diff is the easy bit. it's just a couple bolts. The tricky thing is installign the shims into the centre. you have to know what you're doing. Shims are a few bucks, like around $50. Labour for doing it will probably be around $150-200 at a good rate.

Hey, I'm not here to start a fight with you. I'm just suggesting a possible reason why you're having trouble selling. I totally understand the position you're in having to sell your special car. I've been there done that. The problem is, people don't see the value. e.g. you see it so often on that people are selling r33 gtsts, and you get people coming up and going i'll give you 13 for it. Some people really need to sell, so they let it go for a cheap price. then their mates hear from them that they got it for 13, and then they offer someone else 12.5. this is unavoidable. I know yours isn't a gts, but the same principle applies. Cars just depreciate and that's it unforunately. Also, people don't see the value in you buying parts to make the car stock. Think about it this way. they buy the car stock, and mod it. If it's stock they think oh, that's how it came, obviously you dind't have to byu the stuff. even if you had to buy the stock parts, they're cheap, and are only a portion of the money you got for selling your other bits. also, about compliance, it really depends on where you get it done. For every car that i've imported, the compliance shop has let me used their parts for free. I'm not interested in buying, just offering possible reason for why you haevn't had offers.

The price has dropped heaps. I've watched the price of gtrs. s3 gtrs can be had for 27-28k landed (approximately) from jspec. Most of those gtrs even have some mods. Yours is almost bone stock. I know it's hard to let your baby go for less than you paid for it, but you have to be realistic. It was way too expensive with the mods, and it's way too expensive without the mods. Realistically, what price would you be willing to accept? When you say accepting offers above 30, would you accept 30? Also, colour makes a difference. Black cars are worth more.

Oil adapter plate and wheels sold. Everything else still listed is available. New stuff added.

Thanks for clearing that up filecon. You're a top bloke mate. Didn't mean to offend you in anyway, I just wanted clarification. I'll be awaiting eagerly. I was just amazed when I saw the price, because making stuff like that in china is cheap as chips. e.g. when my dad went to china earlier this year, he picked up some indash dvd player screen thingies for $120 each!!!!

What you've said contradicts yourself: "These are universal hinges so will fit all cars" "The kit comes with instructions and does not require welding. I believe this is a bolt on kit with 2 hinges and 4 200lbs gas struts. The mechanism of the hinges does not require you to change the door latch." so which one is it? straight bolt on? or universal which would require substantial modifications? Also, how much money are you intending on making out of this? shitloads? Mate, i've got friends who have lived in china before, and this sort of stuff is cheap as chips. If you're making money on it, you have to become a trader. If it's straight bolt on, and substantially cheaper, i'm interested.

be prepared to break bolts. be prepared for things not to bolt up as they should. be prepared to mod stuff.

r ugly poos (32) have slow attessas. Attessa on the r33 has about 10 times as fast reaction time (from memory, I dont' have the figures with me because i'm not at home). I can't tell how your car drives e.g. whether it's actually half a second or if it just feels long. Best you can is bleed the attessa system

didn't read your full post, yes, yes yes, yes and yes

dup needs primer. check out the dup site, it tells you everything

Are you sure what you experienced is pad fade bedding in the pads on the street? that's pretty hard to believe.

I was always wondering whether 'r32 ultimate weapon' was a ricebox or if it actually had go fast bits in it. sliding performance highflow is not a straight bolt in - lines need modification and it's bush bearing.